Anyone who has been on an African game safari can name
the "big five" animals on their must-see list: elephant, rhino, Cape
buffalo, lion and leopard. India also has its most coveted sightings: tiger,
rhino, elephant, leopard and gaur.
What about Thailand? "Where are all the animals?"
visitors often ask. Well, the Kingdom does have some pretty impressive
mega-fauna, including tiger, leopard, bear, elephant and gaur. But poaching
of wildlife is so rife in Thailand's national parks and wildlife
sanctuaries, and the habitat is often so dense, that sightings are extremely
rare.
You could spend a lifetime in Thailand trying to get a
glimpse of its big-five species and fail. Or you can lower your
expectations, re-define your list, and meet with complete success. As
tourism promotion agencies learned long ago, it's not what you sell, it's
how you sell it. If the wind-battering, drench-you-to-the-bone deluges of
Thailand's monsoon season can be re-packaged as the "green fruiting season",
can Thailand's "not-so-big-five wildlife safaris" be far behind?
Redefining the Kingdom's star species as far smaller, but
no less fear-some, creatures makes good marketing sense. Almost every
visitor to Thailand has excellent opportunities for close encounters with
weaver ants, golden orb spiders, scorpions, tokays and blood-sucking leeches
— though some of these encounters may be too close for comfort.
While Thailand's national parks support all these species
in abundance, you may as well save yourself the 200-baht foreign visitor
entrance fee, spend it on a half dozen local beer, and watch the wildlife
show from the comfort of your bungalow. All of these critters might reveal
themselves to you from your porch, bedroom, bathroom, hidden in your bed
blankets, your shoes, or (heaven forbid!) inside your undershorts.
Consider the red weaver ant as our first nominee to the
not-so-big five. Here's a creature that puts to shame the home range and big
bite of tigers, lions and leopards. It makes the power of the rhino,
elephant and gaur pale by comparison, and outweighs the lot. Surely you
jest, you're thinking. But no. Ants worldwide make up in numbers and mass
what they lack in size; a staggering 10 percent of all animal weight on the
planet is attributable to ants. A single ant colony can contain up to 10
million individuals, and African red ants have been recorded to range over
15 square kilometres, about the same range as that of a lion pride.
As for ferocity and strength, forget the paranoid
mutterings of a Dorothy tiptoeing through the Land of Oz: "Lions, tigers and
bears. Oh my!" The poor girl's fears would be entirely unfounded. Lions and
tigers never share the same habitat outside of zoos and circuses, and they
rarely attack humans. Not so the red weaver ant. Had Dorothy casually
brushed up against a bush or tree containing the leaf nest of this critter,
as she skipped down that yellow brick road, she would have soon known it.
It's an experience designed to remind you not to do it again.
The slightest disturbance of a plant hosting a nest of
red weaver ants, and legions of soldier ants instantly sally forth to defend
the colony. These soldiers long ago learned the advantages of guerrilla
warfare over conventional tactics. They crawl up pants legs into underwear
and down the backs of shirts before locking their jaws into your skin.
Red weaver ants inflict no venom, as do some ant species,
but their bite is extremely powerful, and their pincher-like jaws lock in
and never let go. So effective is this locked-jaw strategy that
forest-dwelling tribes learned long ago they could use weaver ants as
sutures to close cut wounds.
Of course, nature did not endow this 30 million-year-old
species with such formidable jaws in anticipation of the eventual evolution
of an annoyance in the form of Homo sapiens. The red weaver ant's
ability to lock their jaws into one another allows them to bridge open
spaces with their linked bodies, and to pull together the leaves they use to
build their nests. These formidable pinchers also allow weaver ants to kill
live prey. Their modus operandi? Death by stretching.
Watching a colony of these ants construct a nest from the
living leaves of a tree is a spectacle more absorbing than watching a
lioness prepare her den. The red weaver ant takes its name from both its
colouration and its habit of weaving together leaves for its nest chamber by
gently squeezing the larvae of its young into releasing silky threads. The
Thais have never been known to use these larvae in silk production, as they
do with silkworms, but they have come to relish red ant larvae nonetheless.
Yang kai mut daeng (red ant egg salad), made with ant eggs, shredded
green mango, green onion, chilli pepper and fresh lime juice, is considered
a delicacy throughout the Kingdom.
It is not uncommon to see Thais, baskets attached to long
poles, gathering ant eggs from nests high in the trees. Since the soldier
ants are quick to follow the length of the pole to attack the intruder,
these collectors must be fast and efficient. It's fair to say, in fact, that
human predation of red weaver ant nests has now become the greatest threat
to the species.
The golden orb web-spinning spider ranks second, in our
re-definition of Thailand's big-five wildlife species. One of the largest of
the world's 30,000 spider species, this critter deserves nomination, since
it's large enough to prey on lizards and, some say, small birds. No one to
date has actually documented this spider catching and consuming a bird, but
the strength of its huge web, which extends up to 1.5 metres in diameter,
and the formidable size of the female that spins it, makes such conjecture
plausible.
First-time visitors to Thailand gasp in awe, and people
who suffer arachnophobia totally freak out when they first come face to face
with this massive spider on a forest trail. Less fortunate than those who
spot the spider in advance are the gung-ho trekkers who walk right into one
of their sticky webs face first. O, what a tangled web they weave, trying to
disengage from the massive filaments. The experience is unpleasant enough to
bring on a spider phobia even in those who never had one before.
Far better to sit quietly and watch the massive female
with her shimmering gold markings, black body and red pincers mate with a
male, red in colour and only a fraction of her size. Unlike the black widow
spider, the female golden orb web-spinning spider does not consume her mate
following copulation. She's interested only in large prey, which may account
for the male's small size.
The third creature to make the illustrious "big five"
list is the scorpion, an animal you're more likely to find in a Thai
souvenir shop than you are in the wild. Shy and retiring by nature,
scorpions hunt at night. Their dreaded stinger and the poison sac on the tip
of their tail are designed more for defense than to kill prey. A scorpion's
sting isn't much worse for humans than those of bee or wasp. What elevates
the lowly scorpion to our big-five list is the stalking you must do, if you
want to find it before it finds you. Which you do. Hidden deep in your
bedsheets, inside a shoe, nestled under a rug — scorpions can be as at home
inside your Thai residence as outside it. One well-heeled tourist staying at
a leading southern Thailand beach resort was so paranoid of scorpions that
he could hardly enjoy his holiday. He didn't see a single one the whole time
he was here. Returning safely home to his Manhattan apartment, he was stung
while unpacking his suitcase. It seems a Thai scorpion had also flown
first-class to the Big Apple.
The fourth critter to make the big five takes its Thai
name from the sound it makes. The tookay is named for it's impressive
courtship and territorial call: "took-kay, took-kay, took-kay".
The tookay lizard, the largest of all geckos, looks like
something out of a children's fantasy book. Pink polka dots on a purple-hued
body can deceive the unwary into thinking this is something cute and cuddly.
It is not. The Godzilla of the gecko world, this ferocious creature stalks
and eats insects as well as those adorable little house geckos tourists love
to watch clinging to the walls of their hotel rooms. Not only a menace to
geckos, when cornered the tookay has a disposition that makes a rat seem
benign by comparison. Not in the least intimidated by an adversary hundreds
of times bigger than it, the tookay will often attack any human that dares
to disturb its hiding place atop a door jam, behind a picture frame, or
hidden in the thatch of a beach bungalow. The lizard's powerful jaw and
needle-sharp teeth can easily puncture skin, inflicting a painful and
infectious bite. The more one struggles to be released, the tighter the
vice-like jaws clamp closed.

Traditionally restricted to the forest canopy, the tookay
discovered long ago that human dwellings with lights attract insects and
geckos. Like the tiger, lion and leopard, the tookay is a carnivore that
prefers to stalk its prey in the dark. Microscopic hairs on the pads of its
toes bond on the molecular level, allowing this lizard to adhere to any
surface, including glass, with incredible force. A 35-centimetre lizard
darting across the ceiling of your bedroom in the middle of the night to
seize and swallow a loveable little gecko has more shock effect than
watching a lion bring down and disembowel a zebra or gazelle.
Our final nominee for Thailand's big five is both the
smallest and the blood-thirstiest of them all. Not only does this creature
prey on the highest level carni-vores — lions, tigers, leopards, bears and
humans — it may well consume more blood, as a species, than all the planet's
meat eaters combined. From Africa to India to Thailand, find any big-five
game species, and you will likely find a leech drawing its blood.
Leeches are amazing creatures. They have probably been
around as long as the Southeast Asian forest itself (approximately 160
million years) and, in spite of human loathing, will likely be around long
after we've departed. These simple but successful parasites wait out dry
periods under wet leaf litter, then emerge when animal trails are wet.
Leeches are attracted by movement, warmth, and carbon dioxide levels in the
air, a sure sign that a mammal is nearby.
Leeches have suckers at each end of the body, but only
one mouth part, which has three saw-like teeth. After penetrating the skin,
the leech injects an extremely efficient anticoagulant that makes the
blood-letting appear far more serious than the tiny wound should warrant.
But leech wounds do not infect, unless excessively scratched, and they
transmit no disease, so human loathing of the little critters is largely
unjustified paranoia.
A feeding leech absorbs several times its own body weight
in blood before dropping off its victim, and one meal may last for six
months or more. Leeches satiated with blood are largely immobile, and become
easy prey for foraging birds such as pheasants and jungle fowl.
The pig-tail macaque monkey has one of the most effective
methods of dealing with leeches. They simply pick them off and eat them. Try
it — they're pure protein.
If preying on a parasite is not to your liking, try
befriending a leech instead. The few people who keep leeches as pets claim
they are the best pets of all. They require little space, make great
travelling companions, bond closely with their owner, and only need one
small feeding from your finger every 6-12 months to stay happy and healthy.
But we really shouldn't be removing any of Thailand's big-five animals
from their native habitat. It's far better you simply get a great photo to
impress friends back home. The days of big-game hunting safaris are over,
and mounting the heads of weaver ants, web-spinning spiders, scorpions,
tokays, and leeches on your den wall will impress no one.