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LAST UPDATE: Thursday July 07, 2005

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The Golden Elephant

By Simon J. Hand

True Blue Indian cuisine in the back alleys of Patong.
 

It can be hard being away from home for a long time. Sometimes you find yourself missing the most banal of things — Bovril and Ovaltine, for example, or good European movies. You spend long minutes staring at the imported Weetabix on the supermarket shelves. There are many things that I miss, and all are of similar levels of unimportance.

Most recently, I have craved Indian food. Driven by nostalgia for fine meals enjoyed on the Subcontinent and across Europe, my nostalgia was not quite matched by the restaurants I had found on Phuket. But that's before the yearning drove me to real exploration.

Sometimes the hunt is as much fun as eating the meal once it is found. Weaving through the reams of clothing and market wares down brightly-lit Patong back alleys can pique one's hunger with the zeal of the quest. The Golden Elephant — modest by anyone's standards — may not at first impress. Once the food is served, however, the true worth of this treasure comes to light.

The ambience of this unadorned offshoot of the Narry Hotel invites the complete devotion of the five senses to one's meal. Ours began with some nicely spicy chicken tikka and a sizzling plate of tandoori chicken. The small side dish of spicy salad accompanying the tikka turned out to be very spicy indeed, and added an additional zest to the early stages of the meal.

These dishes were followed by a fish tawa and vegetable curry. As flavoursome as these were, they paled beside our final main course dish. The chef's chicken ghungroo is one of his personal favourites. This creamy North Indian curry dish featured tikka chicken slowly marinated with an aromatic selection of Indian herbs and fried in a shallow pan. We finished our meal with kesar kulfi, the rich ice-cream sweetmeat that, despite its initial resemblance to a calorie buster, in fact acts as an excellent digestive.

The Golden Elephant artfully presents many North Indian, Punjabi and South Indian dishes. Many of these have found favour on the local scene, with Club Andaman and several other restaurants picking up speciality dishes from the Elephant's kitchen. The tour company Pathfinder has also been impressed by the restaurant's fare, introducing many tour groups to its menu.

The resident expat population is also finding the chef's talents to their liking. A far larger draw for expats — the Golden Elephant caters heavily for the palates of Indian restaurant connoisseurs from the West. London lads will be easily reminded — in taste, if not in dιcor — of those wonderful Indian restaurants that served as a final stop before home on a long night out.

The restaurant, of course, provides sustenance for the hotel's guests as well, so the menu also carries a reasonable range of Thai, international and seafood dishes, sating those who yearn for the beachside restaurants of Goa.

Golden Elephant, Narry's Hotel, 92/15 -17 Thaveewong Rd, Patong. Tel: 076 345 732