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LAST UPDATE: Thursday July 07, 2005

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Toto

By Seonai Gordon

Real good Italian just like momma used to make..
 

 

This was a girls’ night out with a real difference. One of our party was celebrating a new job, and another needed comforting for a broken heart. Heavy stuff. But from the moment we entered the warm, rustic-looking Toto’s, up in Cherng Talay, we knew we were going to have a good time.

Here, the atmosphere is one of taverns and parmesan, red wine and hot fireplaces. The terracotta flooring, wooden furniture and raw plaster walls seem to call out silently: “Sit down, order the wine and RELAX.” The music is good too.

Before anyone had time to say Luciano Pavarotti, a healthy-sized plate of (complimentary) rich duck pโt้ on crispy, wafer-thin toast was set before us and the friendly, English-speaking waiters were at our sides. We ordered two bottles of the Hardy’s Shiraz Cabernet 2001 — one is never enough — and watched with delight as it was poured, at perfect room temperature, into glasses the size of fish bowls.

Toto’s vibrant owner Bepy and his wife Noi came over to greet us; we had a brief chat, and then it was time to order the food. We opted for an assortment of starters to share. The Melanzeane alla Parmigana, egg plant baked in tomatoes and parmesan cheese; carpaccio, raw beef with rucola; and the spinaci al gratin, spinach baked with cheese and b้chamel sauce. As a side dish we tried caprese, freshly made mozzarella with tomato and a sprinkling of fresh basil. The cheeses used were all top quality, the mozzarella positively melted in the mouth, and the b้chamel was out of this world.

We tucked into the second bottle of Hardy’s and contemplated heading for the funky, zebra-stripped sofa at the restaurant’s entrance to recover from a little over-indulgence. The ambiance in the room was actually very conducive to an after-dinner nap. Comforting yellow hues and lots of candles. Mmm. A change of heart, though, when we glimpsed the main course menu. One girlfriend went for the Tortellini Salmone Caviale — pasta stuffed with spinach in salmon and caviar cream. Her verdict: “Exquisite. Home-made pasta, real black pepper, rich, thick, creamy and you can really taste the caviar.”

Another girlfriend decided on the Filetto al Gorgonzola — 200 grammes of pure beef tenderloin, pan-fried with gorgonzola and mushrooms with a red wine-and-oregano sauce. The dish was beautifully presented, and she said it had all the flavours one would expect from quality Italian food. Our fourth companion said she wasn’t hungry; or was it that she was trying to lose weight? But she ordered the tagliatelli with tomato and managed to scoff the lot. Obviously delicious. I had my favourite, Pasta Quatro Formaggi — a yummy blend of mozzarella, parmesan, cheddar and blue cheese. Not one for the waistline, but hey, what the heck.

Superb. Excellent Italian cuisine in a setting that provides the perfect place for friends to meet and discuss life. Broken hearts, new jobs… We were genuinely so busy all night concentrating on the food that we absolutely forgot about the conversation. C้ la via!

 

Toto Ristorante Italiano & Wine Bar, Laguna, Tel. 076 271 430;

Toto Ristorante Italiano, Kamala Beach,

Tel. 076 279 619