Some
years ago, a book called One Year in Provence was, as the French like
to say, un tabac, an international bestseller. Peter Manly, the British
author, portrayed his neighbours the locals of central southern France
as beret-wearing, garlic-crunching tipplers who motored through
poplar-shaded country lanes with baguettes and onions hanging out the
windows of their ancient Citroen 2 CVs. Their speech was peppered with
beaucoup of "Zut alors!" and "sacre bleus!", and many of the stereotypical
Gallic utterances that red-nosed, retired Anglophones like to quote after a
few Glenfiddich-and-sodas too many. The book's good-natured, but rather
one-sided, account seemed jolly at the time, and promptly rammed South
Central France's real-estate values up into the stratosphere, as well as
putting Peter in so well with the local mayor that he didn't have to worry
about the odd free case of Cσtes de Provence for years.

I don't mean to be a killjoy, but any attempt at a book
called One Year in Phuket wouldn't nearly scratch the surface of this
island's goings-on. There are far too many facets of life and nationalities
here to glibly squeeze Phuket's cosmopolitan mix into a single quaint novel.
(Besides, local real-estate values have already shot through the roof
enough, without the help of some scribe romanticizing the place and raising
them even higher.) Moreover, it's my belief that to write from the
Westerner's viewpoint would be to look at the whole theme of amusing
cultural differences the wrong way around. Instead, let's look at the issue
through Thai eyes by recounting two short vignettes both of them, I
promise you, true stories.
Imagine you're a young Thai girl, and you've just arrived
in Phuket to work for a major Patong-based hotel. Your new work companions
invite you out for a tour of the south coast in their recently purchased
car. You accept. You've seen, but have never actually had, a conversation
with a "long nose" before, and hold mildly optimistic views that you just
might get along fine in your dealings with them. And looking out of the car
window you think, "Gosh, there're an awful lot of them here on Phuket,
aren't there?"

Meanwhile, two male Belgian tourists looking for some
action thunder out of Patong on rented muscle bikes. The interior of the car
is ice-cool; outside it's blisteringly hot. Halfway up Karon Hill, the two
Westerners overtake the Toyota in an excess of exhaust fumes, sweat and
sunscreen lotion, revelling in the midday heat. Cresting the hill, a
kilometre ahead, the Westerners ride through a swarm of wasps, one of which
stings the lead rider smack-bang on the nose. As your sedan purrs up to the
peak of the hill, the view is magnificent; the sea is as incandescent as
your mother's sapphire wedding ring and the sky is an infinitesimally deep
blue but . . . What's that? There, to your right, you see an unexpected
sight: a half-naked, fully grown man writhing on the roadside grass wildly
shouting "Suck my nose. Suck my nose." All heads turn right, the car slows
gently, but no one says a thing, even as one of the pink creatures kneels
and proceeds to suck the middle of the other's face in what would appear to
be a North European gesture of male bondage. You whoosh down to Karon, eat
lunch and return to your hotel. Then you start worrying about your career in
the tourist industry.
Imagine again that you're a culinary student on an
internship in a hotel. You've just spent the whole afternoon down in the
hotel's cavernous kitchens with the sous-chef learning how to carve a humble
old turnip into the shape of a blossoming rose. At six o'clock prompt, you
proudly place your labour of love on a dining table in the hotel's
restaurant, hoping it'll brighten the hearts of guests for a while. But 10
minutes later a Westerner strides in, sits down, pours salad sauce over it
and eats the whole darn lot up then orders steamed fish with rice as a
chaser.
Yes, we do some bizarre things in Thai people's eyes but
even normal Western behaviour can often seem totally wacky to a Thai person.
Take for example the simple act of walking down the road. There's a saying
in Thai, "Only the poor and farangs (Westerners) walk." (Actually, many of
us would prefer not to walk, but fare-gouging tuk-tuk drivers provide many
visitors to Phuket with a perfectly sound reason to ride shank's pony once
in a while.) Most Thais would rather wait 20 minutes for a motorcycle taxi
to come by than to walk a distance that would take 10 minutes to cover. The
sight, therefore, of sweat-stained foreigners walking purely for pleasure
over large distances is as out-of-the-ordinary to Thai eyes as the vista of
a Bangkok traffic snarl or an entire family plus the puppy on a moped
appears to a newcomer to Southeast Asia.
The sun the very reason some travel all the way to
Southeast Asia represents one of the widest cultural chasms between East
and West. For a local, to have a dark complexion is generally taken as a
sign that one is, or at one time was, a lowly labourer, and no amount of
whitening powder and cream will change that fact. Therefore, row after row
of beachside sunbathers lying for hours under a merciless orb, purposely and
determinedly darkening their hides to show off back home, beggars belief in
a pale-faced, city-bred, class-conscious Thai. Mad dogs and Englishmen,
indeed.
Shopping is another domain in which farangs excel at
being prize chumps in the Thai mind. Any market trader worth his salt will
present his goods at an elevated price, and the shopper who doesn't politely
negate the original offer and then put in a more reasonable one should be
wearing a dunce's cap and handed their ticket straight home. Yet many a deal
is prematurely struck when foreigners convert the trader's asking price into
euros or dollars and immediately capitulate in the belief that they're
getting an instant bargain. Result? Locals witness foreigners actually
ripping themselves off without any outside help whatsoever, and acting
perfectly happy about it. Bizarre behaviour indeed, seen through Thai eyes.
So while Peter Manly and his readers were having a gentle laugh at le
vieux monde ways of Provence, the Provencals themselves were probably
holding knee-slapping, wine-guzzling, snail-slurping laugh-ins at the
expense of the expat population guffawing at their bland food, berating
their anemic cars and marvelling at the expats' strange disinclination to
speak the local argot with a perfect accent. Who knows? Maybe someday a
witty Provencal will even write a tome entitled How Did We Put Up With Him
for a Whole Year? In the meantime, a Thai scribe should maybe pen a
self-help book about expats in Thailand. Something like Farangs: Try Not
to Laugh at Them, They're only Human.
Kanasutra Restaurant is in 18-20 Takua Pa Road, two doors down from
Korjoksee Restaurant, in Phuket Town. Call 018 940 794 or email