People are fascinated by them. Some are repelled, some
are turned on, but nearly everyone is curious. Thailand's ladyboys, or
katoeys, as they are known locally, often strikingly beautiful, are men
who have transformed themselves into women. Some are so convincingly
feminine, many tourists don't even realize they're men at all. Many work the
cabaret shows, or can be seen dancing and posing for pictures with tourists
around Patong. But you also find them working in retail shops, in hotels,
banks and government offices. Katoeys are woven into the social and cultural
tapestry that is Phuket.
Pee is
25 years old. She works as a hostess at Friendship Beach Resort, in the
island's south. She's very bright, outspoken, and refreshingly attractive.
She grew up as a young boy in northern Thailand helping on her parent's rice
and poultry farm in Nakorn Ratchisima, in Isarn in northeastern Thailand.
Pee lived with her uncle between the ages of 10 and 13 before returning home
to finish school.
All through her youth, she participated in sports with
the other boys and graduated from high school still a boy. Pee says she knew
from the age of six years old that her heart was holding a secret. Her
parents had discovered her passion for dressing in girls clothes and playing
with Barbie dolls. They tried to discourage it. Her father was especially
concerned about it. But you can't change something that dwells in the heart.
At the age of 19, she found her first boyfriend. Still shy about being gay,
Pee was content to let people think they were just friends. Now that has all
changed.
Last April, she made the big decision to undergo the top
half of sexual reassignment surgery. Why? In her own words: "I did it for
myself, because of what I've always wanted to be, and because it makes
everything better for my whole life. I have found more acceptance after my
transformation to a woman than I did as a gay man." Her boyfriend is happy,
and she says her family accepts the change. Now Pee is proudly introduced as
her father's daughter instead of his gay son. For her, it made all the sense
in the world. And, as you speak with her and come to know her, it makes
sense to you as well.
Has she experienced open hatred and fear from others?
Sure she has tasted that; but, surprisingly, it isn't so common in her
workplace. "I've had a guest here say loudly in front of others and me that
he didn't want me to serve his table because a ladyboy smells bad," says
Pee. "But one like that just makes himself look like a mean-spirited ass.
I've hosted parties for over 300 guests in one night, and have gotten only
support and compliments from everyone."
Thailand is a very tolerant place regarding most aspects
of human sexuality. What about her boyfriend? If he's attracted to men, how
does he feel now that she's a woman? It turns out her boyfriend is bisexual,
which allows for his continued attraction. As Pee adds, "Our love is based
in the heart, and my happiness is more important to him than whether my body
looks like a man or a woman." Still, they both feel more comfortable when
they go out together, and she giggles when admitting, "He sticks around a
little closer these days to guard me from all the attention I get as a
woman."
Pee's intention is to have the lower half changed as
well. What becomes clear, in discussion, is her unshakable conviction that
it will be the right choice. No one can doubt the sincerity of her desire,
nor the courage necessary to go through with it. It shouldn't need pointing
out to most males what an incredibly committed decision it is to give up
your penis. But this may be at the heart of the matter: to gain the right
perspective, to understand and to accept the idea requires considering what
a brave, undaunted person it takes to say "This is who I want to be." It's
always hard to be what you want to be — to follow your heart no matter how
steep the path. Many people are entirely too concerned with what others
think they should to be.

What would Pee like to tell people about ladyboys? "We
are people like everyone else," she says. "We have feelings, emotions, the
same heartbeat as any person. There are good katoeys and bad ones, nice ones
and mean ones. There are many, many ladyboys who are gifted artists, and
very bright and special people. We're not all the same. But I think
sometimes a lady boy can be more beautiful than any other." She smiles
mischievously.
I hear so many well-intentioned people try to promote
acceptance by minimizing our differences. It may be natural to seek common
ground, but that's not the trick. We aren't all the same. And some of us are
more than just a little different. Some of us are indeed very special. But
there's nothing to fear in that is there? We don't have to be the same to
accept one another, do we? In a great big world of the same old thing, we'd
have nothing to write and read about, and people would have nothing to
wonder about one another, and there wouldn't be anyone like Pee to talk to —
unless, of course, we were all like Pee.
The best bridge may be not only to accept our differences, but be
thankful for them, to celebrate them. A plethora of new research provides
compelling evidence that genetics and internal chemistry play important
roles in determining our sexual orientation. There are people born with both
female and male reproductive components, and there are people who must
choose what to be. Pee is only one of these. In her heart and soul, this is
her choice.