Phuket sells sun, sea and sand," said then-Interior Minister Purachai Piumsombun on 12 January 2002. 'We want good tourists who enjoy nature and beautiful scenery. We don't want drunkards." These comments set the tone for the government's battle against the nightlife industry, which has since surged ahead with full force across Thailand.

The Phuket entertainment industry, concentrated in Patong, has struggled to keep the sanuk (fun) factor high over the past three years, having faced a number of crises, including the 9/11 attack, SARS, war in Iraq and the bombing in Bali. At the same time world events threaten to keep tourists away and purse strings tight, a home-grown attack on the entertainment industry has been waged since late 2000, starting with raids on nightlife venues operating after 2am.

The raids began in the run-up to the national election and continued through 2001 after Minister Purachai announced the government's "Better Social Order" policy, the stated aim of which was to "foster family values and promote law and order" across the country. The enforcement of 2am closing times for nightspots, raids on bars for underage patrons, and on-the-spot checks for illegal drugs were part of a larger strategy to clean up the country's vices.

The latest move came late last year when it was suddenly announced that, under pending legislation, all nightlife venues across the country would soon be forced to close at midnight. Pattanapong Akevanich, chairman of the Phuket Tourist Association, predicted at the time that Phuket would suffer an estimated loss of up to 20 billion baht in tourist revenue as a result of the new measures. Others in the Phuket entertainment industry voiced concern that the midnight closures would keep tourists away and thousands of jobs would be lost, while doing nothing to protect young people from drugs and other vices. Hundreds of entertainment workers staged protests in Patong and petitioned the government to reconsider.

Facing growing protests in Bangkok, Phuket and other regions, the government retreated and came up with a new plan that established entertainment zones and set closing times for different types of venues.

Under the new plan, passed by the Cabinet in early March, all establishments licensed before January 13 must close at 1am. Exceptions include nightclubs and bars, which may remain open until 2am, and lounges, restaurants and massage parlours, which will have to close at midnight. The regulations are not much different than previous laws requiring pubs, discos, cafes and restaurants with live bands to close at 1am.

The regulations also give Phuket two entertainment zones, both of them in tourist areas: Bangla Road and vicinity in Patong, and Taina Road in Kata. These are the only areas where licenses for new entertainment venues will be granted in the future.

Poonsuk "Daeng" Sanchan, owner of the 12-year-old Boat Bar in Patong, says that the enforcement of the 2am regulation and the confusion over new laws have had a negative effect on his and other entertainment businesses. He points out that the laws have had no effect on changing the habits of people going out. Most people still arrive at bars between 11pm and midnight, he says, giving bars only a few hours to earn an income.

Gerard Tan, general manager of Banthai Beach Resort, in the heart of Patong, agrees: "Tourists have a lot of money in their pocket, but no place to spend it [after 2am], except in the 7-Eleven. This is a tourist island — bars should be allowed to stay open until at least 4am. The people coming to Patong are nocturnal and enjoy going out at night."

Khun Daeng says that nightlife is not the only attraction of Phuket, but that it has played an important role in convincing people to stay longer, spend more and come back again. "People like to go out and they need many options," he says. Extending the operating hours of venues catering to tourists to 3-4am would boost the industry, while proper zoning would fulfill the government's aim to keep youngsters away from trouble. "Now that we have our new licenses," says Daeng, "let's see whether we will get zoning or not."

A member of the ruling Thai Rak Thai Party suggested the same in a recent newspaper report. Pramon Khanakasem, a Bangkok MP, said Singapore's tourism industry suffered when it tried to force venues to close at midnight. Later, the island-state moved the closing time to 4am, which led to more revenue growth. He noted that there were no problems with the late-night venues because "the Singaporean government earnestly observes zoning".

The "earnestness" of local law enforcement officials has been a point of contention for many industry players. While some venues are subject to high-profile raids and checks, others stay open till dawn. Khun Daeng says that, at 2am, tourists are left with no place go except venues that circumvent the law. "But if they go to an illegal place, it's not safe for them."

A recent poll of 1,009 tourists conducted by eight major resorts in Patong found that just 3 percent were dissatisfied with the closing hours of discos and bars, while 61 percent considered the operating hours "excellent" or "very good". What was not clear, however, was whether the tourists polled knew that venues are required by law to shut town at 1am or 2am. A number of tourists interviewed for this story said they were not aware of laws on closing times, and that they easily found places that were open until 4-5am.

Whether the bars shut down at midnight, 2am or 5am, the crux of the debate is about how the country wants to define itself. Under the Thaksin government, Thailand is actively trying to shed its image as a destination for tawdry and wild nightlife. In the official marketing literature promoting Phuket's nightlife entertainment, for example, the family-friendly Phuket FantaSea show is emphasized, while places with names like "Fantasy A-Go-Go" are notably absent.

Some Tourist Voices

For many visitors to Phuket, nightlife isn't the only attraction, but it is an important part of their holiday.
Here's a sampling:

"I live in London, so nightlife in Phuket is not so important. For me, the beach is the number — one attraction here, but I do like to stay out late in restaurants or bars sometimes. [If bars have to close early],
I can find a way to enjoy myself after
2 am." Daniel Piccinini, from Italy