
I once saw a flyer posted in a local bar seeking crew
members for an adventure on the high seas. The mission was to deliver a
large luxury yacht to Vietnam for refitting. A few guys I knew were
considering going along. The pay was terrible, and the captain who was
making the offer was a self-described "autocratic bastard". The flyer was
reminiscent of the old pony express-rider posters for the US mail service,
touting extremely long distances on horseback, lack of sleep, highly
dangerous conditions and low pay. It sounded like fun.
But I couldn't be away too long due to other commitments
and the eminent arrival of my parents for their first visit to Thailand. I
made the call, admitted that I had very little experience, and made it clear
I would only sign up if I could be assured of returning by a certain date.
"No problem. We'll be Ho Chi Minh City three days before
that, and you can take your pay and your return air ticket and travel
straight on back here, or eff off to Vietnam for a few days. Up to you,
mate. You can even get off in Singapore, if you need to, and fly home from
there."
And so it was that I became a crew member aboard a
1,500-tonne marine vessel we'll call Black Pearl. I was assigned to
the engine-room watch, reporting to Mr Chapati, a young Indian gentleman,
the only original crew member and chief engineer. He had an adorable pet
monkey named Chips that followed his every move. The ship was amazing, but
in questionable condition and in a state of alarming disarray. We were about
to embark with no radar, an inoperable set of electric generators, a faulty
steering mechanism, an short-handed and inexperienced crew, and an anchor
winch that had to be beaten with a massive sledge hammer in order to lift
the anchor.
The captain was blustery and animated, full of himself.
He knew what he was doing — this was mere child's play, compared to the
endless list of his seafaring accomplishments. We bought a small diesel
generator to power nearly everything electrical, including the ship's only
navigation equipment, a laptop and a hand-held GPS. Luckily we did have a
man who was competent in using it.
Not more than a day into the journey, our only female
passenger, liaising for the ship's owner, asked me to stay in her cabin. She
said our captain was taking the liberty of undressing in her private cabin
for his showers and making unwanted advances. She said she'd call the ship's
owner and explain. I moved in straight away. The captain was furious.
Three days into the journey, the generator went south and
began spewing fuel on the upper deck. I was on watch, and woke Mr Chapati
with the report of a broken fuel-injector line. Just as he was about to
attempt repairs, the captain leapt off the bridge cursing us "monkeys" for
our incompetence, yelling ridiculous accusations at both of us. "What the
hell did you do to break it," he asked. I watched, stunned, as he slapped Mr
Chapati in the face.
Arriving in Singapore, the captain parked the giant boat
half in the active shipping lane. Goodness gracious me! We were soon
approached by the harbour authority and placed under scrutiny for lack of
proper documentation, lack of a ship's agent, and lack of a proper parking
spot. It started to become clear that our illustrious captain was not what
he claimed to be. Placed under house arrest, the ship's crew was a bit
nervous, as the captain filled the air with loudmouth commentary about the
idiocy of port authorities who obviously didn't know their jobs. It was
right about then I was thinking, "Am I having fun yet?"
Twenty-four long hours later the Black Pearl departed
Singapore. After some hair-raising encounters with large freighters that
nearly mowed us down in the dead of night, we finally motored into Vung Tau,
Vietnam. This is where the real fun began. We still had no ship's agent, and
were again placed under house arrest, and told no crew member could set foot
on Vietnamese soil. After four days of waiting, and numerous "gifts" to
immigration officials, we were able to get a shore pass.
The captain sniffed a conspiracy, and eventually decided
I was trying to take over the ship. It slowly dawned on me that, left to his
incompetence, my fate was uncertain. I finally made contact with the ship's
owner, and arranged money and air reservations for the crew as well as
another "gift" for Immigration officials to issue our visas. Relieved to
stay in a hotel for a couple of nights, I went back to find the only person
on board was the captain, who sat sulking at the stern. Packing up, I found
that a very expensive electronic device was not where I'd left it. He
watched me look for a while, and then grinned too broadly when he asked what
I was searching for.
About this time, a little voice in my head was saying:
"You're in big trouble, mister."
It was my editor. I'd missed my deadline. And I wasn't
where I was supposed to be, just then, playing a big music gig either. Oh
brother, the things you do for adventure. But at least I wasn't the only one
in big trouble. The captain was reprimanded by the ship's owner and was
kicked off by the authorities. Turns out, he never was qualified to command
a ship of that size in the first place.
I've since heard many similar historical tales by all the
people who know "the captain". As it turns out, it's sort of a perverse
local entertainment thing, to wink and nod, and not say a thing. It makes
for huge laughter when all the stories come out. "So how was your trip with
the Captain?" they ask.
He's back here now. I see him in the waterfront bars all the time. He's
wearing his charm as bait, waiting for the next opportunity to fall in his
lap.