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On the Prowl
By Kerrie Hall
Living in southern Thailand is a bonus for some, and
there’s usually no shortage of foreign visitors landing on my doorstep. My
sister and her family visited Phuket a few months ago. Of course they’d come
to see me, but also wanted to experience the region. We hadn’t been together
for over two years and, once the whirlwind of the re-union abated a little,
I planned to take them prowling around Phang Nga Bay.
They expressed much enthusiasm at this suggestion, having already glimpsed
the surreal monolithic karsts as their aircraft descended on Phuket. From
memory, I’d been just as awe-struck when I first arrived here. The perfect
way to see the bay is by catamaran or yacht. The fully crewed charter
catamaran Prowler, I’d been told, is a vessel designed for small groups
cruising narrow waterways that lead to the most fascinating of secret
hideaways in this famous bay — an excellent playground for boating.
In the north of Phang Nga Bay, in Krabi Province, lies a national park that
brings out the kid in all of us (perfect — in my family us siblings refuse
to grow up). My 13-year-old niece is the most mature among us. Flicking her
beaded braids about like Bo Derek in the movie 10, she rolls her eyes at our
antics, making me feel like naughty aunty Patsy from Absolutely Fabulous. As
we cruise north in leisurely fashion the wisecracks keep flying and “bead
girl” grins conspiratorially.
A dusky langur (above) watches from a great height in the forest at Chong
Lat.
Thanboke Koranee National Park (“The Stream That Flows
over Rocks”) is a miracle of nature, a special place created by master
storytellers. The limestone islands in this region contain caves, chambers
ringed with stalactites and stalagmites hidden behind vertical
forest-fringed cliffs. The many caves often have associated legends. Tam Hua
Galok, or “Skull Cave”, is over five metres above sea level, with the cave
floor covered in seashells. More than 100 prehistoric paintings have been
discovered inside the cave system; the Fine Arts Department of Thailand
estimates them to be between 2,000 and 3,000 years old, predating
agricultural society in Thailand, and representing a mixture of human
figures, animals and patterns. Some drawings are mere stick outlines while
others are coloured in. The Fine Arts Department warns visitors not to touch
the paintings, since this has already caused the colours to fade markedly.
Heading up a river we’re greeted by Chong Lat — an ampitheatre of forest
reminiscent of a wrap-around Imax theatre. Long-tailed macaques scamper over
rock ledges at our approach, diving onto tree branches in their haste. An
oriental pied hornbill cackles from great heights; white snapper fish jump
into the still air; an occasional lizard skims the water surface; and swifts
circle the vessel amid all the commotion. On cue, the cicada orchestra whips
up a tune of near-deafening proportions, adding a timeless edge to the day.
We motor off to find a secluded beach for an afternoon splash.
One could easily stay out here for a week onboard Prowler, but for us the
daytrip suits. As we back toward the north of Phuket, dark rain clouds loom
in the distance. But this only adds to the beauty of the vista before us. I
glance over at “bead girl” and notice for the first time how many freckles
she has accumulated since I last saw her back home. She throws me her sweet
smile. I know what she’s thinking. This young lady who beat me to Paris was
the same teething whinger that I’d loved as a baby. “This is my favourite
place, I’ve decided,” she says, looking back towards the fantasy we’re
leaving behind. Lucky girl. She’s come to Phuket on a world trip via
Disneyland, New York, London, Paris and Rome. And this is her favourite
place.
For more information,
see: www.thaimarine.com
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