While boarding a dinghy off the coast of Phuket just
weeks ago, I met a young Australian bloke from my hometown on the Gold
Coast. Manfred Neustifter, a 23-year-old trainee, known to his friends and
colleagues as "Richie", was in charge of beach safety and watersports at one
of Phuket's most exclusive residential enclaves, one where guests pay up to
US$8,000 per day.
We had something in common. We were both young Aussies
doing the things we loved, on an island we currently call home. We were
bound to cross tracks some time again soon, but I never expected that on our
second encounter we'd be discussing one of the world's most catastrophic
natural disasters of all time. "Call it luck, call it fate, or whatever,"
Richie said, "but I had been studying these waves [tsunami] just weeks ago,
and I knew what had to be done."
Perched atop a lifeguard tower, it was impossible not to
notice a sudden drop in the tide. The water rapidly receded from the
shoreline, leaving sealife stranded upon the sand and coral emerging high
above the water. Many of those who noticed this wandered down to the water's
edge to collect shells and take a closer look. Others lay on their deck
chairs, oblivious to their surroundings as they soaked up the morning sun.
Sensing something was amiss, Richie phoned the manager of
the beach and boating activities, who was chartering out at sea at the time.
Still on his mobile phone, he was down from the tower, yelling and dragging
people from the beachfront, trying to warn them of what was to come. "No one
knew their life was in danger. No one wanted to go anywhere. There was a
French guy lying on the deck chair who couldn't understand me. I told him:
'Big wave … coming … now.'" Richie eyes bulged as his hands shaped a wave
and moved it across his body.
The tide was only out for about five minutes before the
first surge of water came through. He'd managed to get about 30 guests and
staff off the beachfront and out of harm's way, at this point, and grabbed
another stunned guest in his arms as the water gushed through about to knock
him from his feet. Both his studies and his surfing experience told him
that, once the first surge of water swept back out to sea, the place was
still far from safe, and continued moving people back from the water's edge.
"We had four points where the crowds gathered," he said.
"It was very difficult to control them all. Many of the staff and guests
were trying to clean up — collecting deck chairs and dinghies that had been
washed about. Others moved towards the beach to take pictures. Curiosity was
the worst thing. Because of the commotion I created on the beach, more
people were coming down to see what was going on. I was telling everyone,
'Stay back!'"
By the time the tide had receded a second time, reports
of tsunamis across the Indian Ocean were coming through. And there were
predictions of more waves to come. Shortly after, with everyone gathered
safely at the tennis courts, Richie was on his pushbike, heading over the
hill in search of his Thai "mum and dad"— the family he had been living with
just one beach to the north. His bike was halted at the bridge by yet
another surge of water, but he finally made it down to Bang Tao, the bay
that had been home to his friends and colleagues, as well as an office base,
since he arrived.
"I was wary, but I thought to myself 'I've got to check
this out.'" He arrived to encounter utter silence. No one. Nothing. The
place he called home now resembled a demolition zone. The sea had been
swirling furiously two metres above ground level for hours. People, cars,
jetskis, boats and parts of houses had been mashed about and dumped hundreds
of metres inland. "There were powerlines and trees lying everywhere," Richie
said, a grim look on his face. "It was chaotic."
With no idea of where anyone might have been evacuated
to, or indeed, if anyone in the area had survived at all, Richie spotted one
of the company fuel barges and the enormous leisure boat he had slept aboard
the previous night. Both were being taken by the tide and were headed for
the rocks out at sea.
When an engineer motored around to join Richie in the
bay, a new rescue effort immediately got under way. "I knew that if the fuel
barge hit the rocks, the spill would be a disaster." The two of them secured
the barge, and then headed out to save Dewi Laut, a magnificent, but
now stranded, 350-tonne, 150ft junk, the property of a villa owner at the
complex Richie had just left. These two inexperienced individuals, in
horrendous sea conditions, reversed a vessel usually crewed by 12 people
away from the rocks and drove it to a safe harbour 50 kilometres distant.
"The boat is usually crewed by Indonesians," he told me.
"So there were no labels on the boat at all; just different coloured
buttons. We were so close to the rocks, I thought it was all over."
Once aboard the boat, he got just three sentences through
to his boss: "I'm aboard Dewi Laut. I'm backing the boat out with the
anchor down. I've never done this before." With the phone lines jammed, a
text message came through only minutes later: "GOOD LUCK."
"I remember thinking," said Richie: 'If this isn't my
Shipmaster 5 test, then what could be?'"
The western coastline of Phuket was devastated. "We
weaved between thousands of beach chairs along the way." They passed Patong,
where streams of sun lounges, coconuts, bits of houses and floating debris
flowed from the bay. Although the boat obstructed their view, both of them
kept a keen eye out for any survivors. "The sun had set by the time we made
it to Chalong," he said.
Today, in Bang Tao, local Thai villagers and Western
residents alike have worked together to restore the peaceful, pleasant
community they lost last Boxing Day. Some wander about in often forlorn hope
that the loved ones they lost might show up alive. Together, we grieve for
the locals who ran to the water's edge to collect fish moments before they
were swept away, for the tourists who were caught completely unawares, and
for those who lost their lives saving others. But as a community, we work
diligently to restore the island to the way it was, the way it remains on
the 90 percent of Phuket that was not directly affected by the destructive
waves.
Stories of heroism such as Richie's will be told time and
time again, as this tragedy unfolds. But the often forgotten ones are those
who remain—the Thais out there today working tirelessly to return Phuket to
normalcy. Together, these people display the perspective on Phuket that
should be echoing across the continents.
"The sea can be deadly," as Richie remarked. "We now know its power.
Everybody has read about it and seen the TV coverage. But the power of the
human spirit that is seen across Phuket today far outweighs the power of
that wave. And this is a story that still needs to be told."