Finding my way through the beautiful grounds of the Katathani Resort and Spa, past gardens and pools, Kata Noi Beach to my left, I discovered the intimate La Scala Italian restaurant.

Seated by the window a little later, a glass of red wine in hand, I admired the menu. It proffered an incredible assortment of appetizers, home-made pastas, risottos, pesci (fish) and carni (meat). After a good few minutes of not being able to make up my mind I decided to delegate matters to our waiter. He described a few choice recommendations, dishes that were to prove exquisite.

Sitting back to enjoy the piano tunes and the buzzing atmosphere, I spied a song request card on the table, and couldn't resist suggesting a dose of "Fly Me to the Moon". At the same time that my tune started up, a complimentary appetizer arrived, a small surprise for guests, different every day. Today's treat was mini-cannelloni stuffed with blue cheese, garnished with celery and drizzled with honey, a gorgeous morsel that melted in my mouth.

Our taste buds, thoroughly awakened, eagerly greeted our first course. My partner's sauteed goose liver tossed in raspberry vinegar sauce was sheer luxury — velvety, tender and perfectly complemented by the sweet sauce. My carpaccio of beef marinated in fragrant olive oil and lemon with parmesan flakes was fresh, with subtle flavours and a lemon bite.

Following a sip of wine and mutual admiration for our appetizers, the main course arrived. I had deliberated between an unusual black pasta, seafood risotto and the salmon in a prosecco sauce. In the end I chose something else altogether: the restaurant's signature dish of roast rack of lamb served with its own gravy, redolent of rosemary and garlic. Perfectly cooked, it was accompanied by a mini-ratatouille served atop an earthy mushroom with spinach and a divinely sensuous gravy, rich and glossy. My dining partner had prawn and scallops wrapped with pancetta and served with caponata. The scallops were tender and plump, and beautifully presented in butterflied prawns enveloped by the pancetta. The caponata (a Sicilian medley of vegetables) with its rustic Italian flavours made a perfect accom- paniment.

With clean plates and full bellies, we weren't convinced we could manage dessert. But the menu swayed us. Again I faced the what-to-choose dilemma, a recurring theme this particular evening. Was it to be the panna cotta, the bitter chocolate mousse with wild cherries or one of the other equally inviting dishes? I opted for a light finish to such a luxurious meal with a medley of fresh fruit, coulis and passion fruit sherbet. The presentation involved a stunning display of colours and shapes. The sherbet was a sensation, tingling the taste buds, so refreshing after such a hearty meal.

My partner had the warm and crispy pear tart served with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce. It was heavenly, the flavours mingling wonderfully.

The service at La Scala was simply outstanding and an integral part of our evening. The waiters were attentive, knowledgeable, friendly and efficient — a tribute to an outstanding Italian restaurant.