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LAST UPDATE: Thursday July 07, 2005

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Restaurant Review: The Paradise

 

Great wine, great views. And the best phad thai DL
had ever had in his 33 years in Thailand

You’ve no doubt heard the clichés “treat yourself” and “get away from it all”? Well, I’ve found just the place. The Paradise Boutique Beach Resort & Spa, on Yao Noi Island, is “getting away from it all” at its very best, and it lies only one hour away by boat from Phuket. Or, if you’re feeling flush, you can charter the resort’s private seaplane and rock up to the restaurant where it sits on 400 metres of private beach.
Eating here is especially wonderful. Chef Marcel knows what he’s doing when it comes to serving the finest cuisine, and The Paradise might be one of the quietest places on earth to dine. There are no other buildings within 10 kilometres, virtually no road access, and only the sound of the birds to keep you company. To complement the tranquility, the resort operates a “no music and no noise” policy.
The Paradise lies nestled into the northern-most bay on the east side of the island, affording access to splendid views out over the limestone towers of Phang Nga Bay. The sun sets behind the resort’s two beachside restaurants, and throws out a blanket of hazy pink and yellow hues around 6pm — perfect with a chilled glass of Chardonnay.
My dining partner (DP) and I settled for the house white, to start with. A pale gold Chardonnay from Chile it was, at the same time slightly sweet yet a tad sharp, leaving the palette with a fruity aftertaste of apple and citrus. For starters, DP ordered pla meuk prik thai dum (stir-fried squid with black pepper and garlic) and I, being entirely European when it comes to food, chose the delectable Caesar salad, which bulged with juicy Greek olives and crispy lettuce.
To accompany our main courses and desserts, Marcel recommended a medium-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, again from Chile, an interesting blend of chocolate, red plums and vanilla. Scrumptious. DP didn’t bat an eyelid when it came to mains, and launched straight in with gung lai seua (huge grilled tiger prawns soaked in garlic butter) and pad thai hor kai (stir-fried rice noodles with prawns, bean sprouts and peanuts all wrapped in a paper-thin omelette). He said that it was the best pad thai he’d ever had in his life. Not bad, coming from someone who’s been eating this dish for the past 33 years.
Settling a little too comfortably into the ambiance of Paradise and eyeing the hammocks that swayed temptingly between beachside palm trees, I chose the curcuma mezzaluni, otherwise known as ravioli stuffed with prawns and laden with a rich basil and cream sauce. The green pasta pockets came looking resplendent, drizzled with sauce and sprinkled with crispy-baked tomato skins and fresh basil. Just right, and leaving enough room, of course, for a zesty lime mousse. Now where’s that hammock?
The Paradise is sophisticated elegance in a perfectly natural environment.