Insalate, antipasti, suppe, zabaglione … Childhood memories came flooding back as I scanned the traditional Italian menu. Not that I’m Italian, but many of my neighbours were in the Western multicultural suburb my family called home. The cooking smells from Italian kitchens wafted all over the neighbourhood along with the sounds of mammas calling their kids to a big, hearty dinner.
Entering Toto Ristorante Italiano in Bang Tao village, in the Laguna area of northern Phuket, a sense of home enveloped me — the warm décor, delicious aromas and happy families sitting around dinner tables. After more than 20 years in Thailand, owner Bepy now calls the Kingdom home, but delights in sharing the gastronomical best of his motherland.
It all started in Bangkok, many moons ago, when Bepy first landed, fresh off the plane from Firenze and seeking adventure. The City of Angels grabbed him, and before he knew it, the political scientist had opened his first restaurant with help from a local Italian mamma. She taught his cooks to create authentic Italian dishes, and this expertise was passed down through successive generations of chef. Bepy takes pride that his staff is like family. His manager Chayan followed him to Phuket, after many years in the capital city. His head chef now was once his dishboy, he confessed with beaming pride.
On this night, my Thai dining companions sat at the table like kids in a candy store. Thais are becoming very fond of Italian cuisine, I’m told. To the tune of happy children giggling in the background, we tucked into tomato and basil bruschetta, Bepy’s specialty involtini toto (pork tenderloin roll, stuffed with ham and cheese), tortelli pasta with lobster and pink sauce, carpaccio of beef and aracula salad and, of course, the boys couldn’t resist desserts of home-made ice cream and crème caramel.
For wine and coffee lovers, Toto serves the best Italian labels. Wine from the front-door cellar is stocked mostly from Italy’s vineyards but also offers a selection of fine French vintages. The espresso is smooth, bitter and super strong. Just the way we like it. For alfresco dining, the Toto Pizzeria, Wine and Coffee Bar, in front of the main restaurant, serves great crispy pizza from a wood-fired oven.
A whole village atmosphere helps to define Toto’s élan. Several restaurants surround this eatery, as well as traditional English and Irish bars, massage and beauty spas, shopping boutiques and realty offices. It’s one destination on Phuket tailor-made for families, visitors and locals alike.
Bepy leaves us with a warm handshake to join his partner Noi at the bar, where she’s chatting and laughing with local guests — obviously regulars, from the tone of their conversation. You can tell Toto’s is like a second home, in this neck of the woods. Especially for the golfing crowd that swing their clubs with Bepy in the afternoons, Toto’s offers excellent cuisine and evening relaxation.