Phuket is a big island with many different
beaches, and the atmosphere at these changes vastly. At the bottom end of
the island end we find Nai Harn Beach facing Southwest, a classic topical
beach with crystal clear water ideal for swimming. Just around the corner
from here, at Rawai and further eastwards, everything changes. The water off
the beaches becomes shallow an unattractive for swimming, and in the bays
like Chalong is it murky. The beautiful swimming beaches end at Nai Harn.
Nai Harn accommodation This
classic beach is set back in a deep bay formed by mountainous headlands and
a hilly island. From the beach only one building is visible, and this is the
strikingly designed Phuket Yacht Club Hotel. Enjoying one of the most
beautiful locations on Phuket, this resort actually lays back against the
hillside into which it is sculpted. The views from the hotel are simply
stunning. While it is on the headland, guests can still step from hotel to
the sand.
Despite the name this is strictly a hotel, not a yacht club. In the winter
season many yachts come to anchor in the perfect anchorage that Nai Harn bay
affords, right in front of the hotel.
At the back of the beach and out of sight is The Sands, privately owned
apartments available for rental.
Also back from the beach a little is a new set of rooms that is to open
within 2001. Otherwise there is no other accommodation at Nai Harn.
Under and beyond the Yacht Club Hotel
This is quite confusing, but the public road runs directly under the Phuket
Yacht Club Hotel, emerging from under the hotel’s basement and continuing on
for a kilometre or two, where it accesses two small, and very private
resorts, The Jungle Beach Resort and Ao Saen Bungalows . When
one approaches the Yacht Club’s barrier gate the guards always open to allow
the public to pass.
Long-term accommodation in the Nai Harn area
Some bungalows and houses for rent can be found in the back streets of Nai
Harn. Being quiet and green, this is a popular residential area for
expatriate foreigners working in Phuket. One would have to hunt through the
back roads looking for signs to find this kind of accommodation.
Bungalows at Rawai
Rawai, as mentioned above, lacks a beautiful swimming beach; the sand is
narrow, the water shallow, and the bottom scattered with rocks and coral.
But the sand here has been turned into a kilometre-long, under-the-trees
restaurant. There are probably 20 or more vendors and casual restaurants
along here which are favourites for the local Thais. On weekends they are
packed. Here is a very different, Thai family atmosphere.
Across the road from Rawai beach are a few relatively cheap bungalows.
The Evason This was the first international-class resort on Phuket Island,
originally called the Phuket Island Resort. It sits atop its own headland on
the southeast corner of the island, surveying the offshore islands. This is
the headland separating Rawai Beach and Chalong Bay and the hotel access is
from the Chalong-Rawai road, half a kilometre from the water at Rawai.
At first it may seem a strange location to build the very first resort on
Phuket - far from the classic tropical beaches of Phuket’s West coast. But
this resort has other benefits, first of which is peace and tranquillity to
enjoy its magnificent views. The hotel has its own beach club on a nearby
island, connected by a shuttle service.
Chalong Bay; the boat harbour – bungalows, bungalows, bungalows
There
is no swimming beach along this bay, the main boat anchorage in Phuket, so
no major resorts have been established here. But a whole host of bungalows
offer cheap accommodation in this area, another one favoured by resident
foreigners for its non-commercial, residential feel. Anyone staying in this
area will almost certainly need to rent a vehicle of some sort, since the
various bungalows are scattered and isolated. Several of the nicest are
found between the road running from Chalong five-way circle to Rawai and the
shore of the bay.
Jimmy's Lighthouse, a popular resaurant and yachtsmen's haunt
overlooking Chalong Bay, also has a few nice rooms with good views over the
harbour.
The writer of this web site, John Everingham, also lives in Chalong, in the
Phuket Fishing Lodge which offers long-term rooms at the best prices.
Since both Rawai and Chalong are residential areas for both Thais and
foreign expats there are many good restaurants and bakeries in this part of
the island.