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VOL. 12.3

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By Sam Wilkinson
 

Rounding the bluff over the Thavorn Village Beach Resort, we see the Nakalay Junk tied up at the jetty. Minutes later, at five o’clock sharp, we board the 116-foot ex-rice transporter and erstwhile Hollywood extra. On the top deck, we sip fruit cocktails, stretched out on Thai cushions in the late afternoon sun, for all the world like a couple of pampered pashas.

Over the PA downstairs, Justin, the shaven-headed bop-till-you-drop tour director, recounts the ancient legend of the Nakalay and why the ship is named after a seven-headed monster snake that fell in love with a local girl called Marisa. Apparently, all went well with their romance for a while, and the silly girl even agreed to being turned into a mermaid in order to move in with her not so beau. It must have been true love. Two thousand years ago though, Marisa died in tragic circumstances, and the poor old guy, still pining for her, is supposed to show his head(s) pretty often around sunset at the Thavorn Village Beach Resort. Personally speaking, after witnessing some rather unusual amorous liaisons here on Phuket, I’m prepared to believe that a seven-headed snake can meet and woo a beautiful Thai girl, and I wish him well for the future.

The Filipino band launches into the theme song from Titanic. This always goes down well. Justin works the crowd, moon-walking between tables. We decide to go for a stroll around the three decks and, at six o’clock, are called downstairs to eat. This was a little early for my tastes, but the meal, a constant flow of satay and tacos with smoked salmon and beef-with-salsa canapes, was delicious.

Off to the east Patong, Karon and Kata Noi beaches drifted by while, on board, the shadows lengthened. To the west, framed in the setting sun, a longtail boat made its way home. The setting seemed timeless, but the Nakalay is actually a lot older than the longtail design. Still, it felt difficult to relate to the boat’s striking history as described by Justin, given the three recently installed Cummins diesel monsters with a total output of 2,650 HP thrashing away below deck and the ice clinking in my glass. Justin bounced out again and introduced an historical Polynesian dance show with a taped voice-over, sounding uncannily like a North American newsreader. Hold on a second – we’re on a beautifully restored Indonesian-Chinese ship, in Thai waters, watching a Polynesian extravaganza and listening to a Dan Rather sound-alike? It’s a small world.
 

Yam hoi, shellfish salad, is served and much appreciated by our fellow seven-headed monster appreciation society. Many request a second portion, even though it’s pretty spicy, perhaps because it’s authentic and so fresh. We sample a seafood terrine as the Polynesian dancers strut and wiggle to what sounds to me like a rap version of “Old MacDonald Had a Farm”. It has to be said that the floorshow is enthusiastic, however, and the costume changes would leave Elton John's wardrobe exhausted - that is if he's into grass skirts and coconuts. And there’s Justin. The man’s energy is amazing, a definite asset to the cruise. By the time the evening winds to an end, he’s whipped our Pavlovian responses to a fever pitch. He only has to mention the name of the on-board band and we’re applauding without the slightest inkling of why, except that it’s fun.

“The ‘Song Birds’, folks,” says Victor, the bandleader. “Let’s hear it for them.” As we’re mooring, they launch into “I Feel Fine” and, looking around, I realize that in fact we all do.

The Nakalay Junk. Day charters and sunset cruises on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 1,850 baht per adult, 1,200 baht for children under 12, as well as a dinner cruise to the north, later visiting Patong at 2,650 baht per adult and 1,590 baht per child.

Tel. 290 341-2; Fax: 344 499; thenakalayjunk@thai.com