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VOL. 12.3
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It’s a Jungle Out There
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Sawasdee pee mai BE (Buddhist Era) 2544
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Sweet and Sour, Salt and Spice
Cruise Dining on the Nakalay Junk
Chinese Dining Above Patong: The Royal Kitchen
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Ever-more options, Ever-father,
Ever-more luxurious: The Boom in Liveaboard Diving
Epat Diary:
You Are a Trampoline
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ARCHIVES:
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It’s a Jungle Out There
By Thom Henley
What Makes A Tropical Forest A
‘Rainforest’ And A Jungle Such A ‘God-Awful Jungle
Tourists returning from a hike or elephant trek through the choking vines
and vegetation of logged-over lands are often bitterly disappointed their
advertised ‘jungle trek’ included none of the magnificent trees, showy
epiphytes, orchids and wildlife diversity they expected. More by accident,
however, than design their tour company is technically correct in calling
these secondary forests a ‘jungle’.
Scientists love classifications, sorting out this infinitely complex planet
we live upon into neat little categories. As anyone who did not sleep their
way through high school biology class can tell you, we have enough orders,
phyla, families, species and subspecies to confuse the best of students. Few
people other than botanists and foresters, however, are aware of the complex
classifications for forest types.
South Thailand’s forests fit into five broad categories based on elevations:
Montane Forest, Lower Montane Forest, Hill Forest, Lowland Forest and
Mangrove Forest. At the highest elevations in the south (1500m and above) is
the forest type fewest people ever see, the Montane or Cloud Forest. Here
dwarfish trees struggling against high winds and cold temperatures, are
almost perpetually bathed in wet fog and cloud. Somewhat lower (1000-1500m)
the Lower Montane Forest is composed of large oak trees, ferns and begonias,
creating quite a different type of woodland. Hill Forests (300-1000m.) are
lower still and make up most of the protected forest areas in Thailand. Here
a greater variety of tree species can be found with an abundance of palms
and rare jungle orchids.
The greatest diversity of all is found in the Lowland Forest, which grows on
the plain to a height not exceeding 300m. Finally, at sea level, along
protected shallow shorelines, one finds the Mangrove Forest where a
surprising number of tree species have adapted to the periodic inundation by
the tides. Mangrove forests, which wed the land to the sea, are most
pronounced along the Andaman coast, with the most extensive d displays of
this type found near Ranong and Phang Nga Bay.
Sadly, the Lowland Tropical Forest, which blanketed the southern peninsula
just 50 years ago, is virtually gone, replaced by millions of hectares of
oil palm and rubber plantations. From the Isthmus of Kra to the southern tip
of the peninsula at Singapore, one would be hard pressed to find even a few
remnant patches remaining.
Khao Nor Chuchi, the protected Gurney’s pita reserve in the south of Krabi
Province, is the one notable exception. It is a pitifully small reserve
compared to the vastness of this peninsula where it was once the dominant
forest type, but it does offer the visitor a botanical glimpse into the
glory that once was. Huge emergent trees, with flared root bases big enough
to hide an elephant behind, a wealth of woody liana vines, showy epiphytes
and an astonishing variety of plant life thrill the increasing number of
visitors who flock to this reserve.
While the Lowland Tropical Forest is largely a thing of the past there are
still significant forest reserves in the south of Thailand at slightly
higher elevations. These hill forests fall into two categories: Tropical
Evergreen Forests and Tropical Rainforests. The first of these has a
distinct dry season while the latter has rain falling in substantial amounts
in every month of the year.
This may seem like hair-splitting to a lay person but scientists note
distinct botanical differences between these closely associated forest
types. While both Tropical Evergreen Forests and Tropical Rainforests
display stratified layers, an abundance of lianas and the huge flared root
bases of many emergent trees, there is a preponderance of bamboo species in
the drier forest type and a greater species diversity in the true
rainforest. It’s a general botanical rule that the greater the rainfall the
greater the biodiversity and nothing on earth outside the coral reefs can
match Tropical Rainforests for mega-diversity.
It is possible to find localised pockets of rainforest at the base of a
waterfall, or deep in a shaded canyon of an otherwise Tropical Evergreen
Forest. Khao Sok National Park in Suratthani Province for instance, has only
6% of its forest classified as true Tropical Rainforest, but that doesn’t
stop tour operators from advertising all of Khao Sok as rainforest. Far
better examples of rainforest can be found closer to the Thai-Malay border,
but these are more than a day’s drive from the South’s premier tourist
centre - Phuket, and there are other complications in visits to these sites.
Hala Bala Wildlife Sanctuary in Yala Province has been the scene of border
skirmishes between Islamic Separatists and the Thai Border Patrol and is
currently closed to the public (as this issue of the magazine goes to print
– Ed note). Thale Ban National Park in Satun Province recently had its park
facilities attacked and destroyed by angry villagers wanting to encroach
further into the park. It has been slow in attracting more visitors.
What most people on eco-tours in the south of Thailand get to see then is
jungle in the truest sense of the term. Webster defines it as: “a dense
growth of rank and tangled vegetation.” The thick, nearly impenetrable
growth of tall grasses, creepers and light-loving saplings which spring up
after old growth forests are logged or burnt over, or as unused agricultural
lands begin the long slow succession back to a forest state, is what
scientists refer to as “a jungle.” Unlike an old growth or ‘virgin’ forest,
where the upper and lower canopies result in a heavily shaded forest floor
with little understory creating easy hiking conditions, a secondary tropical
forest or ‘jungle’ is so dense with light-loving species all competing for a
place in the sun, a machete must be used to literally hack a way through it.
This then is the jungle of Hollywood adventure films, teeming with deadly
snakes, tigers and other large, dangerous animals — at least on the silver
screen. The truth is one is unlikely to find much fauna here other than
rats, a few squirrels and some adaptable bird species. There is always a
huge loss in biodiversity as primary forests are converted to secondary
forests or jungle; this is especially pronounced if the area of
flower-peckers, barbets, fruit doves, hornbills, fruit bats, large
squirrels, langurs and flying lemurs.
Below the upper canopy is a layer of forest formed by the crowns of shorter
trees. This lower canopy has butterflies in abundance, tree frogs,
gliding lizards, woodpeckers, trogons and flycatchers. The clouded leopard
is found here as are the slow loris, civets, tree shrews and smaller
squirrels.
The understory is made up of low growing ferns, palms, bamboo, herbs
and young saplings. It provides habitat for large grazers and their
predators: conversion is large and the area for conservation is small.
It is the stratified nature of the undisturbed tropical forest that makes it
so extraordinarily rich in species compared to the single dense layer of
vegetation in a jungle. Both Tropical Evergreen Forests and Tropical
Rainforests display six levels recognized by research scientists:
Viewing such a forest in profile one can easily distinguish the top level,
emergent trees: which are the tallest plants with the most massive
bases in the forest. These are the preferred trees for gibbons when singing
and sleeping. Emergent trees also provide nesting cavities for hornbills,
and a wealth of fruit and seeds for arboreal and ground-loving birds and
mammals.
Just below the emergents is the upper canopy: a continuous layer of
tree crowns in a million shades of green. This is the preferred habitat of
sunbirds, elephant, rhino, deer, tapir, bear, tiger, and other cats. The
forest floor is the lowest level. It is largely reserved for insects
and decomposers (beetles, scorpions, ants, millipedes, leeches) and
insectivorous mammals like the scaly anteater and many species of snakes.
So there we have it, all the proper classifications and different Thai
forest types. Now that you’re an expert on the subject challenge your Thai
tour leader to show you a Lowland Tropical Forest, a Tropical
Evergreen Forest, a true Tropical Rainforest and a Jungle.
He or she will no doubt bless you with a big Thai smile and that classic,
all-encompassing Thai response: “Same, same, only different.”
Your guide, as usual, will be absolutely right.
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