The beautifully designed teakwood structure was originally the home of owner Tom McNamara. As friends began dropping in to sample the Royal Thai cuisine being developed by two of Bangkok’ Oriental Hotel’s top chefs, his home eventually became the first of three restaurants now gracing the cliffs on the north end of Patong Beach (along with Otowa, for Japanese food, and Da Maurizio, for Italian).

Today, Baan Rim Pa, open daily from 11.30am till midnight, remains a leader in Royal Thai cuisine while retaining the relaxed ambience of a rather splendid home environment.

For dinner, this particular evening, we began with a sampling of appetizers including my favourites goong sarong, shrimp rolled in yellow noodles and stir-fried — the mild spiciness of the coating delightfully complementing the sweetness of the shrimp — and khaowtaang hnatang, small crispy rice cakes served with a peanut sauce. There were more appetizers to sample, but prudence dictated saving some room for the main course.

Dining Thai-style, ordering a variety of dishes for all to share, works equally well with two people or more than forty, either group expertly handled by the staff. As the cooling sea breezes fluttered gently about us from the three open sides of the restaurant, plate after plate of delicious food appeared on the table. Enormous grilled prawns held place of honour, but one of my favourites was the phad thai, which is usually served as a noodle dish but here came wrapped in a flat pancake. A number of curries included a savoury paneang ped, or duck in creamy sauce. To accompany the meal we sipped red wine, a Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Rouge from the Cellar, that superbly enhanced the Thai dishes.

Replete from a sumptuous repast, gazing at the stars and the moon reflected on the sea, the gentle breeze once again whispered: this is what makes Phuket unique.