The ferry sags as the huge truck lumbers onto it. I follow in my small truck, edging over to the side of the boat. Soon the ferry is full and it chugs off from the mainland across the inland passageway between it and Koh Lanta Noi (the smaller of the two Lanta islands). There are no facilities on Lanta Noi (small Lanta island), only the government offices recently moved there from Old Lanta Town on the southern end of Lanta Yai (or the big Lanta island), and a small fishing village on the southern end.

Disembarking onto a concrete ramp I trundle off, following the rest of the pack on the short, five-minute drive across the northern tip of Lanta Noi which lies between the mainland and Lanta Yai. Once again arriving at a ferry landing, the whole loading procedure is repeated. This time the distance is shorter with the journey taking but a few minutes. Once off-loaded I drive into Ban Sa La Dan, the main tourist town, or village, on the northern end of the island. The passenger ferries from Koh Phi Phi and Krabi Town arrive here as well as the car ferries from the mainland. From this point connections can be made to anywhere in Thailand.

The selection of places to stay on Koh Lanta ranges from woven bamboo huts on stilts for 100 B/day to the medium range concrete-type bungalows. And there are a few more upscale resorts such as Lanta Garden Villa Resort, Lanta Andaman Holiday Resort and Sri Lanka Resort (prices range from 4000 B/day on up). There is also an upmarket resort, Pimalai Resort and Spa, on the southwestern coast of the island set to open in November 2001.

On the western side, where almost all accommodations are located, there are long stretches of white sand. Even during the busiest time, the peak of the season, there is still the feeling of space and elbow-room on the beaches. How long this will last is anyone’s guess as is attested to by the truckloads of concrete blocks, bricks and other assorted building materials making their numerous journeys over and back on the ferry everyday.

The sea is the main attraction of Koh Lanta. From the western side an unrelenting expanse of water, the Indian Ocean, extends out until it blurs at the horizon, blending with the sky. In actuality, off the western coast of Lanta, as well as along the whole southern coastline from Phang Nga Bay to Tarutao, are a number of small islands that are home to an amazing array of marine life. There are nine dive shops currently on Lanta, the oldest being the Ko Lanta Diving Centre run by German Christian Mietz, (www. kolantadivingcenter.com). The usual Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) three-day and instructor courses are offered. Divers are taken out to Koh Mo, Koh Ha, as well as the Hin Muang and Hin Daeng island groups (which are rated among the top 10 dive sites in the world) and other sites for an incredible underwater experience. For those who choose not to venture so far underwater, the numerous coral reefs, limestone rock formations, undersea caverns, and sandy coves of the neighbouring islands, each numerous delights to the snorkeller. It has been estimated there are more than 200 hard corals and over 108 reef fish in the area (and these are just the ones that have been catalogued).

Koh Lanta may be the most southern island in Krabi province, but that doesn’t mean it’s the only one. As far as the eye can see to the north and south, islands dot the surface, primarily inhabited by small Muslim fishing villages. On Lanta itself is a village of Sea Gypsies. These people still speak their own language, have their own songs and live to their own rhythm of life, a way of life that becomes increasingly threatened as the waves of tourism spread ever further south. For now they seem a stable community.

At the north end of the island is located Ban Sa La Dan, a recent outgrowth of the rapid development of Krabi province in general and Koh Lanta specifically as a popular tourist destination. Backpackers, squeezed out of places like Phuket, Phi Phi and Railay due to accelerating prices, comprise the main body of tourists here. It’s jam-packed with dive shops, tourist information centres like Lanta Holiday Travel and Tour (075 684 031 or 01 477 3209), tour operators, souvenir shops, Internet cafes, mini-marts and bars. The main road that runs down the length of Lanta begins here and in Ban Sa La Dan, it’s narrow and crowded during peak season.

Travel on Koh Lanta is mainly by motorbike or rented car. Take warning – the road is a dirt track complete with potholes that could swallow a car (or so it seems at the time). The soil is a rich, red colour and, while lovely to observe on the surrounding landscape, covers your car (and yourself) in a reddish layer of grime.

Travelling south from Ban Sa La Dan you pass bungalow and resort entrances one after another for the first third of the island. In between the entrances are bars (reggae, karaoke, etc) and restaurants. There are plenty of places to stay to suit any budget or comfort level. Once you leave the road and head down one of the narrow trails to the bungalows, you appear suddenly to have arrived at the beach. The white sand stretches out on both sides, on and on. There are eight beaches on Lanta, so even during the busiest season there is apt to be plenty of elbowroom.

Continuing southward, the road (and I use that term lightly) winds its way along the western side and about midway down the island begins to climb up over the hills. There’s a great hike into the hills with a view well worth the climb. Once over the hills you begin the descent, and the road actually improves. Part way down the hill is a great open-air restaurant, Khao Yai Restaurant (Che Li Lanta, Tel: (01) 415 1008, 075 687 244) with a superb view of Lanta Noi, the mainland, and numerous islands. Instead of following the road over the hills, you can head to the southwestern end of the island where there are a few secluded bungalow operations and a new (as of Nov 2001) upscale resort and spa, Pimalai Bay. All of Lanta is included in the Mu Koh Lanta Marine National Park.

Old Lanta Town is a step back in time. There are no guesthouses, no streets thronged with glassy-eyed tourists. There is a paved street running along the beachfront and a cluster of 60-100-year-old, Sino-Portuguese style wooden houses built on pilings out into the sea. The people themselves are mainly fishermen, with the result being some of the best and freshest seafood in Southern Thailand is to be found here. It’s long on peacefulness and quiet village life yet short on nightspots, mini-marts and restaurants.

An even more tranquil sojourn is Koh BuBu (Tel: (01) 228 4510), 25 minutes by longtail east of Lanta Town. It’s a small island with one 12-unit bungalow operation on it. Open from mid-October until around mid-April, activities on Koh BuBu include swimming, hiking and relaxing.

A peaceful getaway; an island big enough to warrant exploration yet small enough to give a feeling of uniqueness; an experience of sun and surf: all this is Koh Lanta, easily accessible, laid-back, and still unfrenzied.

KOH LANTA