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By John Everingham

Coconut palms cast their shadows on a soft-sand beach; warm crystal waters wash over colourful coral reefs; the green forest canopy rustles in the tropic breeze; two pairs of toes grapple with each other in the sand. You and your lover sprawl there, not another soul in sight.

Koh Lipe, Satun

This beautiful little island far out in the Andaman Sea is just right for those who have time and who are eager to push the limits. Getting there takes time, but those who do so will not be bothered by crowds. Aside from one of the best-known “sea gypsy” villages in the area, there are just three simple bungalow establishments on the island. Lipe is part of an island group protected by their distance from shore and thus little damaged by loggers. The forests on the larger, neighbouring islands are in beautiful condition, although unfortunately the same cannot be said of the coral reefs. During the 1980s the area’s reefs were devastated by dynamite fishing, though today many fringing reefs have grown back, and the snorkelling can be delightful. The distance from the mainland ensures that the water here is always exceptionally clear. To really enjoy the many deserted beaches, the forests and waterfalls on the other islands in this area, the visitor needs to rent a longtail boat from Lipe for a full day’s trip.

Getting there isn’t so difficult during the October-May high season. It just takes time. The best access is from Thama Lang Pier, just south of Satun Town. A boat leaves daily at 11.00am. Pak Bara Pier also has a boat leaving daily at 11.00am, but this one takes longer. During the May-October southwest monsoon season boat services are erratic, ceasing operations when the sea is too high. The bungalows do remain available for those who can get there, but bring your own food supplies or be prepared to buy food from fishermen and small stores in the gypsy village on the north shore.

Koh Adang, Satun

The little-known bungalows on this larger island, the main one in the Koh Adang National Park group, are controlled by the National Parks Division, through which bookings must be made in advance by telephone. These rooms have even fewer guests than those on nearby Koh Lipe, except during Thai national holidays, when most national parks in Thailand have to handle huge influxes of local visitors.

All national park accommodations in the Andaman Sea close from the end of June till the 1st of November.

Take the same boats that run to Koh Lipe (see above). At Lipe, hire a longtail to cross the channel to Koh Adang. Sometimes one can catch a national parks boat. Ask about boats when calling to book.

Koh Tarutao, Satun

The only accommodation on this large, mountainous island lies on the northwestern corner, at the national park headquarters. Since the whole island is a national park, no private operators are allowed here, and in fact there are no buildings or habitation on the island save those of the parks. Long and rugged, with a ridge of mountains running the length of the island, Tarutao makes a rare haven for wildlife. Illegal logging and animal hunting, rampant in the 1980s, seem to have stopped, and the island is now a favourite for bird and animal watchers. There are several trails, including one right across the island, providing access to the beautiful rain forests that clothe most of the island and to extensive mangrove swamps down the east coast.

Boats leave from Pak Bara Pier daily in the high season, and you can readily hire one’s own boat for the trip. Those eager to get about and explore can hire a longtail for several days; expect to pay 1,000-1,500 baht per day.

Koh Bulon, Satun

This island is one of those little-known gems that one usually hears of only by word of mouth. While some backpackers have discovered it, as yet few people are visiting. The island is quite small and isolated, making it ideal for those really wanting a quiet, do-little escape. There’s a beautiful beach on the east side of the island, and some nice fringing reefs. Other than swimming, snorkelling, relaxing under the palms, reading, soaking up the sun and eating good Thai seafood, there isn’t a lot to do. Three resorts, all very small, offer accommodation. One of them is going up-market.

Getting there in the high season is straightforward, while during the monsoon season the resorts simply close down. There is a daily boat from Pak Bara Pier at 2.00pm in the high season.

 

Name Rooms Price Telephone Bulon Resort, Koh Bulon 35 rooms 200-250 baht 66 1 990 7901 Panka Bay Resort, Koh Bulon 30 rooms 200-300 baht 66 74 711 982 Pansand Resort, Koh Bulon 30 rooms 1,000-1,500 baht 66 1 397 0802 Koh Nhai Resort, Koh Ngai 45 rooms 500-800 baht 66 1 990 7901 Kradan Paradise Resort, Koh Kradan 50 rooms 400-1,000 baht 66 74 711 982 Koh Mook Resort, Koh Mook 27 rooms 250-300 baht 66 1 397 0802

Koh Ngai, Koh Kradan, Koh Muk

Trang

After the big three – Phuket, Phi Phi and Lanta – these three gems off the coast of the coast of Trang are perhaps the best-known of the Andaman coast islands. There are several resorts to choose from, but they’re far enough apart and the islands big enough to offer plenty of space and private sand. Koh Ngai has several small bungalows north of the one substantial establishment listed here, but it is never quite sure whether they’ll open each season. Koh Muk has the most habitation, with a large Thai fishing village on the north coast and a quaint little settlement on the east side. Koh Kradan sees few people outside the resort. All three islands have beautiful beaches with fringing coral reefs. Koh Ngai is lined with dramatic limestone cliffs along the west coast.

The three resort destinations remain open during the monsoon season, but getting there will prove difficult when the ocean is roughest. Remember, however, that probably half of the time during the monsoon season remains quite sunny and pleasant, with only moderate seas.

Since these three islands aren’t too far off the coast, getting there isn’t particularly difficult. You have to find your way from Trang Town to Pak Meng, which isn’t too difficult, since it’s just 40km away and the best-known beachside port in this province. There’s a minibus service from the town to Pak Meng for 30 baht a head; the van usually leaves when it’s full. From the large pier at Pak Meng, longtails or, sometimes, even speedboats can be hired to take you to any island at any time. Expect to pay a longtail about 1,000 baht for a one island drop-off, or 1,500 baht for the day – a good deal for a group. In the high season, there’s a passenger ferry leaving at 9.30am at 150 baht per person.

Koh Poda, Krabi

This is the first island off the Krabi coast at Phra Nang, a destination for many daytrip boats. Krabi Villa operates a set of comfortable bungalows. When the daytime crowds return to the mainland, this island is truly delightful.

Koh Bu Bu, Krabi

Bu Bu, a small island with one 12-unit bungalow operation, lies between the eastern coast of Koh Lanta and the mainland. It makes a tranquil sojourn for those seeking a getaway, a chance to lie back in a hammock, swim a little, or maybe hike around the island (about an hour). Open from mid-October until about mid-April. During the rainy season you can stay on the island, but call ahead first to check. And you must pack in all food and supplies, since the kitchen is closed then as well.

To get to Bu Bu, take the ferry from Koh Phi Phi or Krabi Town to Saladan on Koh Lanta. If you've called ahead, the Bu Bu boatman will meet you at Saladan to take you through the mangrove estuary between Lanta Noi and Lanta Yai and over to Bu Bu. Or from Saladan go to Old Lanta Town and Bu Bu House, located on the main road parallel to the sea, and they'll contact the island for you.

Koh Racha, Phuket

This island, lying directly south of Phuket, is one that comes very close to the standard idyllic tropical dream: no roads, no shops, lots of coconuts, clear waters with colourful reefs, and stunning beaches of soft sand. The main beach on the northwestern corner of the island is quite small, and is lined with simple bungalows that cost about 500 baht in the high season and 200 baht in the low season. No bookings; just turn up.

Ban Raya is the one better-quality resort with more comfortable bungalows, set apart on the east coast amid delightful coconut groves. This relaxing resort specializes in diving and snorkelling, since it doesn’t have much of a beach. But the location on a hill overlooking the sea makes up for this. Walking tracks through coconut groves criss-cross the top end of the island, and provide access to the two main beaches. Note that this island is called both Racha and Raya.

Koh Lon, Phuket

This island is one of the closest to Phuket, providing part of the protection for the Chalong Bay yacht harbour. Despite its proximity, this is a surprisingly quiet and pretty island, with one small but comfortable resort. You can easily sleep on this island and cross to Phuket during the day to tour. The resort is hidden among coconut palms on Koh Lon’s protected northern side, and is thus accessible in all weather. The view from here back to Phuket is a delight.

Cruiser Island Resort have an office in a shophouse just before the main Chalong jetty, and run regular boats back and forth for their guests.

Koh Phra Thong (Golden Buddha Island) Phang Nga

Those with a New Age-style environmental awareness will like the new developments on this large island off the coast well north of Phuket. The only resort here is actually an estate of private houses available for rent while the owners are away. The resort urges guests not to bring water bottles or any packaging - it pollutes their island. The island is also home to fishing families.

Longtail boats can be rented to the island from the Koh Phra Thong Pier 7km north of Kuaburi, a 2.5hr drive north of Phuket.

Similan Islands Phang Nga

The beautiful turquoise waters surrounding this chain of small islands far off the Andaman coast have made this a solid favourite among divers. Diveboats are often packed into the two main anchorages here. Though quite beautiful, the few beaches here are small, and there isn’t a lot to do on the islands for non-divers. We recommend this for divers, but not for others.

For those who need onshore accommodation, the National Parks provide two sets of basic bungalows and tents, one on Island #4 and one on Island #8. On Thai national holidays these are invariably crowded with students, and the beaches come alive at night with campfire songfests. They close during the monsoon season, from the end of June till 1 November.

Koh Yao Noi

Phang Nga

Situated right in the middle of spectacular Phang Nga Bay, this is one of our favourite islands. From any of the four resorts here, endless places present themselves for exploration by boat, and there’s plenty to do right on the island itself. Bringing a mountain bike to discover the small roads and rough tracks of Koh Yao Noi is a smart idea.

There’s a large village (or small town) in the middle of the island, connected to the large concrete pier in the channel separating the two Yao islands. The west coast has villages and rice fields, while the east is covered in rubber plantations. Only the north is too rugged for habitation, with some delightful little bays and beaches nestling between soaring limestone cliffs typical of Phang Nga. They are only accessible by boat.

Passenger ferries connect Koh Yao Noi to Bang Rong Pier, on Phuket’s northeastern corner. There’s always a ferry leaving Phuket late morning, and others leave occasionally during the day. At the main jetty on the island, you can always find a motorcycle taxi or tuk-tuk willing to carry you over the tracks to the resorts, all of them situated along the east coast.

Koh Yao Yai

Phang Nga

The largest island off Phuket, Koh Yao Yai is also the most isolated, with only rudimentary accommodation available in three tiny resorts. It makes for ideal backpacking territory. Most of this long island – Koh Yao Yai, in English, is “Long Island”– has been turned into a rubber plantation. Several villages cling to the shores, with the biggest found at the far northern and southern ends. Ferries leave from Phuket’s Tien Sin Port at 10.00am and 2.00pm, docking at Koh Yao Yai’s busiest port and jetty in a large west-coast bay. From here, motorcycle taxis can be rented to cross the island.

Due to the protection afforded by Phang Nga Bay, it is easy to get to both Koh Yao Yai and Koh Yao Noi during the monsoon season, and most resorts stay open year-round.