We arrived at dusk. A storm was blowing in from the sea and, from the beach, we watched a grey curtain of rain approaching over a deep turquoise sea. It had been a long drive up from the south of the island, and we were happy to have made it to the spectacular JW Marriott Beach Resort and Spa on Mai Khao Beach in time for this magic twilight hour. In the fading glow of evening, a lamplighter waded through a lily pond carrying a long flame-tipped spout to ignite the fires that flickered above the dark surface of the water.

We were expected. We were greeted with friendliness and light humour. "That's a lovely scent you're wearing," said A (yes, that is her name), who had been assigned to look after our table. "Is it French?" Pretty young Thai girls don't often compliment me on my choice of eau de parfum. "Thank you. Yes. Eternity by Calvin Klein. Made in France."

The setting of the Marriott's La Cucina restaurant is simply stunning. Huge windows overlook a fringe of trees, beach and the sea. Silhouetted palms and casuarinas were twisting and writhing like wild dancers in the approaching storm. Inside, the rich voice of an Italian tenor accompanied us to our table - somebody had got the sound system right. We took our seats by the window and watched the storm breaking over the sea before our very eyes. The culinary event was about to begin.

Do you want to know what my companion and I ate and drank on this romantic and stormy night? Or would you prefer to eavesdrop on what we whispered into each other's ears? In fact the two were almost one and the same because mostly we discussed the menu and the food.

First Paolo, the head chef from Florence, dressed for the part in a tall white stovepipe hat, offered to prepare a special platter of antipasti misti (mixed starters). They included delectable canapé-style concoctions of aubergine, mushrooms, squid, mussels and clams with flavours of garlic and herbs and an ample supply of extra virgin olive oil - the true flavours of the Mediterranean.

Meanwhile, the music was moving through phases like the storm itself outside the window. Recorded classical Italian songs from the voice of Andrea Boscelli segued to Buddha Bar soundalikes to the live and mellow voice of Khun Antonio, a wandering minstrel from Argentina who sings in eight languages but prefers Italian and Spanish. From corners and shadows, not intrusive, certainly not in-your-face, the sounds from his nimble guitar-plucking fingers and his gentle voice fell like a light mist over the room.

"This song makes my heart melt," my companion said with her eyes. "And this Cappellini Ai Camberi (angels' hair fresh pasta with prawns, clams and lobster) transports me to paradise." My Agnello Alle Mele (succulent roast lamb with honey), accompanied by a few tumblers of robust red wine, had almost the same effect.

Gradually, subtly, the tone and rhythm of the music changed. Old favourites like "O Solo Mio" were being sung by some of the serving staff accompanied by Khun Antonio. Then all the waiters and waitresses who had so beautifully looked after our table were up there dancing and singing. Transformed into new roles, they were weaving between the tables in a conga line, clapping and singing and laughing. I suddenly twigged that we were here not just for a meal but for a performance. Cups of cappuccino and glasses of grappa mysteriously appeared on our table. We sat back and enjoyed the show.

The staff of La Cucina, which means "The Kitchen", and is so named after the open kitchen which is located within the main dining area, certainly know how to give their guests a good time. A spectacular setting, excellent food, the friendliest of staff, entertainment and romance - this makes a great place to take someone for that special night out.

La Cucina, JW Marriott Resort & Spa,
Tel. 076 348 300