Plenty is written about Thai cuisine, but Thai desserts, or kanom, are given relatively scant attention. These delights have a surprising and colourful history. In the late 17th century, Constantine Phaulkon became King Narai’s First Minister, but was killed soon thereafter during the revolution of 1688, when Phra Petracha became the ruler of Siam. Constantine's wife Marie Phaulkon survived her husband, however, and was in due course granted her freedom. She later assumed responsibility for cooking and education at the Palace, where she made good use of her culinary skills. Born of mixed - blood – Japanese, Portuguese and Bengali — she used recipes the Portuguese had taken to Japan for cakes and sweets, which subsequently became a big hit with the Palace. Using eggs as the base for her cakes and snacks — unheard of in Siam at the time — Lady Phaulkon has probably had the biggest single-handed impact on Thai cuisine in its history.

Such desserts and snacks, using egg yolk and syrup as the base, are common today and generally considered Thai desserts.

Two main ingredients are used in the preparation of most Thai desserts: banana and coconut. Thailand is home to an abundant variety of bananas – more than 20 in total — but the most commonly used in kanoms, in innumerable permutations, is the small, sweet type known as kluay namwa. Kluay buat chee, one popular dessert — and it's easy to make — is simply banana stewed in coconut milk, served warm. For those with a sweeter tooth, try kluay namwa cheuam, or candied sweet banana, where the banana is soaked and stewed in a sugary syrup until thick and the banana turns a pale red colour. Again, it’s best served warm.

Bananas also make popular snacks, for example kluay tord, deep-fried banana. A southern Thai favourite, kluay chap originates in Phatthalung Province. Look for a shop called Mair Daeng in the provincial town, where you can buy either the salted or sweetened version – the best this writer has ever tasted.

The number of banana-flavoured snacks and desserts are endless, as are the variety of coconut-based treats. In no way inferior to the ubiquitous banana, coconut is used in myriad ways. Coconut milk and coconut cream, served both warm and cold, are common in Thai desserts. Popular dishes include fak thawng kaeng buat, pumpkin in coconut milk, pheuak kaeng buat, tarro in coconut milk, and man kaeng buat, or sweet potato in coconut milk.

A popular dish found on many restaurant menus, thap thim krawp (mock pomegranate seeds in coconut ice syrup) is made from water chestnuts coloured red, boiled and added to a sugar-water-coconut combination — forming the syrup — and served with crushed ice. This light and refreshing dessert is commonly served at the end of the meal.

Coconut meat is also common in deserts such as maphrao awn lert rot, or young coconut flesh in coconut cream. This is a dish for the coconut aficionado — tapioca cubes are boiled in a mixture of coconut flesh, sugar and water. To this add coconut cream, stir well and serve either hot or cold.

Some say Thai desserts bear little resemblance to their Western counterparts, which normally provide a sweet finale, in that they can be eaten at anytime – before, during or after a meal. This is not true. Whereas small, light kanoms are often served at the end of the meal, more elaborate, and arguably tastier, kanoms make popular snacks day and night, and are generally found being hawked on the street by vendors.

Whether you are a desserts person or not, give Thai kanoms a try. You won’t be disappointed. And for those that really enjoy them, try re-creating them at home from the menus below.

Banana in coconut milk (kluay buat chee)

10 ripe bananas

3 cups coconut milk

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon salt

Peel the bananas, cut each to make four pieces.

Pour the coconut milk into a pan and cook over a medium heat until it boils. Add the bananas and cook until soft, then add sugar and salt.

After the sugar has completely dissolved, add the coconut cream and then remove from the heat. Serve warm.

Tip: Pumpkin, taro or sweet potato can replace the bananas to make fak thawng kaeng buat, pheuak kaeng buat or man kaeng buat, respectively.

1 small pumpkin (about 200 grammes)

4 eggs

pandanus leaves, cut into 15cm lengths

Cut a circular lid out of the top of the pumpkin. Remove the seeds and membrane and clean thoroughly inside and out.

Crack the eggs into a mixing bowl, add sugar and coconut cream. Knead the mixture with the pandanus leaves until the sugar is dissolved. Strain through cheesecloth and set aside.

Fill the pumpkin with the egg mixture. Steam the pumpkin (without the lid) on a medium heat for 30-45 minutes. Remove from the heat. Cut the pumpkin into wedges about 8cm thick and serve.

Mock pomegranate seeds in coconut ice syrup

1 cup canned water chestnuts, cut into small cubes

150 grammes sugar

red food colouring

crushed ice

Soak the water chestnuts for about 10 minutes in the water with red food colouring. Drain and coat with tapioca flour. Shake off any excess flour.

Put the floured water chestnuts in boiling water. Boil until they float to the surface. Remove and soak in cold water. Drain and wrap in a cheesecloth.

Mix the sugar and water and boil over a medium heat until syrupy. Add the coconut milk and stir. Remove from the heat. To serve, mix three tablespoons of mock pomegranate with sufficient amount of coconut syrup and some crushed ice.

Tip: Corn flour can be substituted for tapioca flour.