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LATEST ISSUE OF OUR PRINTED MAGAZINE

Festival Fare
by Chutima Incharoen
Thailand is famous for festivals. Check out 2003’s celebration scene in the south.
 

Stealth Explorations of southern Thailand
by Terry Blackburn & Kerrie Hall
Southern Thailand’s controversial sea kayaking industry has exploded in popularity in recent years. Where to find a peaceful paddle on an “eco-tour” adventure?
 

Phuket Personality
by Michael Moore
John Underwood: Artist, designer & builder. An Aussie man of many talents sets up international shop on Phuket.

 

Pool Perfect
by Richard Ehrlich
It’s a tough job, but someone has to do it! Lounging around Phuket’s top swimming pools.
 

Restaurant Review - Salabua
by Bruce Stanley
Head chef Ronnie again takes out top honours at International Salon Culinaire. Our writer discovers the secrets of his success.

 

Restaurant Review - The Last Paradise
by Kerrie Hall
A hidden slice of paradise, forgotten by the hands of time; we reveal a secret in the deep south.

 

Resort Review - Like a Virgin
by Fiona Welch
“Superstar heaven…. the perfect blend of nature and luxury,” writes our intrepid reporter, who visited the Koh Lanta resort of Pimalai.
 

Expat Diary: Angels of Patong
by Thom Henley
Some random acts of kindness restore faith to Thom’s tarnished Thai travel memories.

 

 

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Festival Fare

by Chutima Incharoen

Phuket enjoys colourful cultural events 12 months a year. The island’s festivals tend to reflect a mixture of two cultures; the large local population of ethnic Chinese and the majority Thai Buddhists.

Chinese New Year

Chinese Lunar New Year’s Day, or Trut Jeen, fell on January 31 this year. The Chinese don’t work on this particular day, since it implies bad luck — then it is hard work for the whole of the following year.

Therefore, the last house-cleaning and preparation takes place on New Year’s Eve, which is also a day for ancestor worship and a reunion dinner with the whole family. A typical feast — boiled whole chicken, stewed pig, roasted pork, duck, nee koay, or New Year’s cake, and fruits — is prepared in the morning and arranged before the ancestors’ shrines as an offering. After the incense sticks have completely burned, the food is collected for the family meal.

At midnight, firecrackers are set off to welcome the New Year. During the day, Chinese worshippers of Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy, fill the Chinese temples.

On Phuket, people visit the Thai Buddhist temple of Wat Chalong for its annual Chinese New Year celebration and to worship the statue of Luang Por Cham, a highly revered local monk. In this festive season, a typical gift is ang pao, a red envelope containing money.

The Birthday of the God of Heaven

The ninth day after the Chinese New Year Day, people set candlelit altar tables with two sugarcane stalks in front of their houses along the streets of Phuket Town. Entertainers present puppet and dragon shows, in honour of the gods, before the altar of one house after another. When the show is finished, people give the puppeteers and dragon dancers money in red envelopes.

Ching Ming Festival

Ching Ming Day, or Cheng Beng at Phuketians call it, usually falls in early April. Chinese people visit their ancestors’ graveyards some days before to clean up the graves and repaint inscriptions. On Cheng Beng Day itself food offerings are placed in front of the graves before being taken home as a family feast.

Songkran

(the Water Festival, or traditional Thai New Year)

April 13th, or Songkran Day, is the Thai traditional New Year’s Day. Since it is celebrated during the hottest month of the year, the festival involves much mutual splashing with water. Traditionally, Thai people go to the temple to make merit in the morning, and perform a bathing ceremony to pay respect to Buddha images, monks, elders and other revered persons, gently pouring scented water on their hands and, in return, receive blessings.

On Phuket, residents and tourists alike enjoy this cooling-off festival from the night of April 12th. Water guns are loaded and tanks of water are carried on the back of pickup trucks, especially in Patong. By midnight, Soi Bangla and the bars that line the street on both sides are flooded. Revellers stay soaked and, in many cases, get a little more than tipsy. Don’t expect to stay dry the next day, if you go outside, and feel free to say "Happy New Year" when you do (and you will) get splashed.

The Festival of the Hungry Ghosts (Por Tor)

In traditional Chinese belief, the seventh lunar month is regarded as a month for the hungry ghosts. The gates of hell are opened at midnight of the last day of the sixth moon, and these ghosts get to revisit the earth for one month. If they aren’t fed and otherwise paid respect by their relatives, these deserted spirits can be malicious, and people appease them with offerings of food.

This is also the time to pay homage to the god of devils, known to Chinese as "Por Tor Kong", and, hence, the name of the festival. On Phuket, the god of devils has a special shrine near Bang Neaw Primary School. Outside, a temporary stage is set up for likay, a Thai folk performance, and outdoor movies. Rows of tables are also laid out to display the principal offering: various sizes of red, turtle-shaped cakes made of sticky rice flour and sugar. Symbolizing longevity, turtles, in this case artificial, are used to pay respect to the god of devils, thanking him for another year of unharmed life. Another venue to see the fair is the Pud Jor Shrine, near the central market in Phuket Town, where a great selection of beautifully carved fruits and vegetables are displayed.

Vegetarian Festival

For the first nine days of the Chinese ninth lunar month, or around October, both cultists and the majority of ordinary Phuketians practise a vegetarian regimen and refrain from sinful conduct, including killing, arguing, telling lies, having sex and drinking alcohol. White clothes are also worn, symbolizing a purified body and mind in dedication to the Nine Emperor Gods. Many restaurants supplement their menus with vegetarian dishes, and most local food shops fly yellow flags, signalling a temporary change from serving meat to vegetarian fare.

Expect to see miraculous (and sometimes gruesome) acts during street processions of devotees of the Nine Emperor Gods, where mediums pierce themselves through both cheeks with spikes, swords or, these days, just about anything you can imagine. Spectators should beware of firecrackers thrown into the parade, and are advised to wear earplugs. Various holy ceremonies are also conducted at Chinese temples, including fire walking, climbing ladders of sharp blades, and dippings in hot oil. Wear white to blend in, and don’t miss the great variety of delicious veggie dishes around the island.

Loy Krathong Festival

Loy Krathong Day falls on the full moon of the 12th lunar month, generally in November, when Thais around the country make krathong and float them on rivers, ponds or the sea, thanking the goddess of water for her generosity and apologizing for having polluted her in many ways. Traditionally made from slices of banana plant as a base and with folded banana leaves as petals, the krathongs are decorated with flowers, joss sticks and candles. Include a coin, and float away all your troubles from the previous year. Styrofoam floats are commonly sold, but these aren’t environmental friendly. Today, edible krathongs, made of bread, are being introduced, designed to convey our woes away and then feed the fish. Stage performances can be seen at Saphan Hin, in Phuket Town, as well as Karon and Patong beaches.

 
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