Those who have experienced the working pace of India's great cities understand intuitively that it’s no coincidence India is also the birthplace of transcendental meditation. A simple desire for reprieve and retreat is very natural, perhaps the very mechanism of survival. In keeping with this understanding, Baluchi Restaurant offers its uncanny transport from the bustling sidewalks of Patong to the tranquil harbour of a resort environment...and a very fine Indian dining experience. a kind of meditation on food, if you will.

Baluchi is an integral part of the classy Horizon Beach Resort Hotel, only a quick jog off Thaveewing Road. you leave the hum and din behind you and find yourself strolling through the resort's stately courtyard. Just to the right of reception, you're confronted with a gateway to another world, guarded by the best of Thai smiles but welcoming you to the warm light, attentive service and delicious aromas of India.

General manager Javed Shaikh explains that the cuisine of the restaurant is built directly upon Indian tradition, but embellished with the creativity, the secrets, the flair of chef Nrendra Baluchi. Javed, clearly practiced at the art of romance, knows the blend of food, drink and environment necessary to create it. The merest glance of inquiry from any customer brings the staff to full attention, and needs are met with exquisite politeness.

Baluchi has both interior tables and veranda seating that opens to a small courtyard and the air outside. We chose the veranda, as the evening was warm and the fresh air inviting. Papadams, paper-thin wafers, arrive as quickly as we are seated. They are served with a pair of tantalizing dipping condiments, one with purèd spinach and a touch of mint, the other with dates, mangos and a bite of cumin. Just as our palettes are stimulated, eyes and ears are massaged with unobtrusive live jazz and pop music from a lovely vocalist on an outdoor sound stage. We are offered drinks from the neatly-lit, well-stocked bar, and handed both a list of imaginative cocktails and Baluchi's international wine list, featuring selections from Australia, France, Italy, California and South Africa.

I'm persuaded to try achari fish tikka, a clay-oven specialty of the restaurant, and seekh kebab, a minced lamb dish with flashes of ginger, mint, cardamom, red chilli and cumin. In combination with the style of cooking, a marinade of ginger, lime, garlic and salt imparts a remarkable tenderness to the fish, which literally dissolves on the tongue. The careful seasoning and slow basting produces an exotic taste sensation, my favourite of the evening.

Next, we are teleported to Bangladesh as we sample dal Baluchi, a traditional black lentil dish, slow-fired overnight and flavoured with a secret blend of Indian spices capable of impressing a sultan's mother. Moving to Calcutta, we taste palak paneer, a creamy spinach dish with cottage cheese, garlic and onion. again, the chef's magic touch induces visions of enlightenment. Both dishes are eaten with garlic naan, a traditional flatbread. Caution is advised here if you want to save room for dessert, as these dishes are both filling and delicious.

While Patong has its share of fine places to eat, it isn't easy to find the combination of fine cuisine and expert service this restaurant offers. Baluchi’s staff, furthermore, can easily accommodate vegetarians and others with special dietary needs. If you need respite from the mean streets of the city and are looking for a little romance, Baluchi is pure elegance that will romance both the taste buds and the company you keep.