Many thousands of people visit Thailand each year. Most take away indelible memories of scenic mountains, lakes, forests, coastal areas — all of them home to rich varieties of wildlife. Most would be horrified to think that they themselves were contributing to the demise of some of the world's rarest creatures.

In this age of Internet communi-cation and widespread awareness of the wider issues, furthermore, most travellers are familiar with the exhortation: "Leave nothing behind but your footprints." So what's the problem? It's not that people don't care. It's simply that they aren't fully aware of the consequences of their actions as tourists. The problem is both deep-seated and understandable.

Who doesn't want to be photographed, on this special holiday, with a sea eagle on their shoulder or, perhaps, holding a baby gibbon? This makes a special photograph to show at gatherings for years to come. Who can resist the urge to take home just a little piece of coral to prove they were diving or snorkelling off a tropical reef? Who can avoid the excitement of bargaining for a special souvenir of the holiday, say a genuine tortoise shell, turtle-shell bag or piece of jewellery.

The problem is that sea eagles should be soaring high, not perched on human shoulders as the target for a barrage of flashguns. Gibbons are rare and beautiful creatures which should be enjoying family life high in the forest canopy, not being dragged from bar to bar, along with other wildlife, as photographic props. the reefs, complex associations of living organisms, support many forms of marine life that, without a change in attitudes, are destined to wind up as mantelpiece ornaments.

The following cameos highlight some of the issues here in Thailand. They also tell readers where they can obtain further information or offer volunteer help.

The haunting call of the wild gibbon is an unforgettable experience. The gibbons you see in the bars, sometimes dressed in baby clothes while having their photographs taken, all started life high in the forest canopy as part of a highly social community. Although the capture and exploitation of gibbons is now illegal on Phuket, many of these fascinating animals are still being denied the company of their peers, forced to lead a solitary existence.

Gibbons produce one offspring, on average, every two to three years. It is the babies that interest poachers. Generally the mother is shot and falls from the tree with her baby still clutching her. They are hard to capture, however, and, for every live pet baby one sees in a bar, an estimated 20 mothers and 19 infants are killed, with 20 gibbon families torn apart. Until they reach five years of age, these captives remain cuddly and amenable. Then they become aggressive, developing sharp canine teeth that can inflict severe injuries. At this point, they are often killed or abandoned.

In 1992, the Gibbon Rehabilitation Project (GRP), the world's first, was opened on Phuket at Bang Pae Waterfall. The GRP works exclusively with the Lar gibbon (white-handed gibbon), the most widespread of the three species found in Thailand. Abandoned specimens are rescued and brought to the centre, where they are given care and attention in preparation for their reintroduction into the wild. They have to learn to recognize and eat wild food, for example. In captivity, they were probably fed on beer, peanuts, rice and sweets. They also have to improve their strength and mobility. Some may have never seen a tree before. Indeed, some may never have seen another gibbon, and so they have to learn to be a gibbon again.

The project is staffed mainly by international volunteers who contribute both donations and work. Locals are also welcome to assist, but they must be available for a two-week training programme. Volunteers feed the gibbons, clean the cages, run the tours and conduct forest research. The gibbons are tracked, observed and monitored in their new habitat outside the sanctuary grounds. Tours of the sanctuary are free and the project is funded entirely by donations. What can you do to help?

* Never pay to be photographed with a captive gibbon or any other "wild" animal.

* Volunteer your time and participate in an unforgettable experience.

* Donate funds or financially adopt a gibbon.

* Not having their mothers, fathers, brothers, sisters and cousins to visit them, the gibbons would love to see you!

Thailand offers some of the world's best sites for the recreational diver. Phuket and many neighbouring islands are fringed by a rich variety of corals, fish and other tropical reef creatures. It's no wonder that so many visitors take local scuba diving courses, aiming at first-hand experience of this undersea world. Not all divers are sufficiently adept at buoyancy control, however, and they damage the delicate coral, helping to destroy the reef substratum. Add to this some dubious fishing practices among local fishermen whose nets and explosives have also destroyed large areas of coral reef, and only one conclusion is possible — Thailand's corals need protection. This problem was highlighted by the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI), and many dive operations are making divers, new and experienced, aware of the serious problems caused by the destruction of coral. A continuing awareness-raising campaign is needed to ensure that future visitors can also enjoy the beauty and mystery of this incredible natural resource.

Reefwatch Worldwide (Thailand), based in Krabi, collects data on southern Thailand's coral reefs and adds them to a global database. The Krabi volunteers study the distribution and behaviour of local marine species. In addition, the divers observe and monitor corals, mapping reef areas around the region.

Dive schools and visiting divers are not just concerned with the quality of life under the sea, they're also concerned to ensure that beaches and coastal areas are kept clean and litter-free. It's a sad reflection on many coastal communities that their beaches sometimes resemble rubbish tips. There's something positive that can be done in this case, and many dive companies organize regular clean-ups. The next major event in Thailand will be held 21 September 2003. The international telephone number for further information for volunteers and others is (66 75) 632 650. In Thailand, phone (075) 632 650.

For more information on these topics and for information on learning to dive or becoming a volunteer: