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Waterborne By Reid Ridgway Our roving reporter investigates the local aquatic scene
It's believed that life on Earth originally appeared in the oceans. All the fossil records point back to those tiny, single-celled sea creatures of the sea and the brackish transitional bogs where seawater turned to land. Given that our mammalian bodies are nearly 97 percent water, some might even say we're nothing more than one of many different experimental containers, designed by the sea, to explore the land. But this isn't our quest today. Instead, we're going back to explore the water. Life on Phuket still springs from the water. The culture, the cuisine, the commerce, the entertainment, the weather, and the very beauty of Phuket are direct reflections on her boundless giving. Any number of ways present themselves of exploring your ancient heritage as protozoa, plenty of ways to heed the call of your imminent return home. I think I hear your mother calling you. Welcome to watersports Thailand. To start with, let's just get our feet wet with some categorical choices. For the relaxation crowd, there are a wealth of choices, among them yachting cruises and charters, riverboat cruises, speedboat or longtail picnic daytrips, sea kayaking, and simple power-lounging on the beach (novel, hat, sunglasses and the occasional wade in the water). For the slightly more physical crowd, there's snorkelling and scuba diving, jet skis, windsurfing, body surfing, board surfing, kite surfing, banana rodeo, and parasailing. All right, okay. What's banana rodeo? Picture a speedboat towing about 10 crazed people laughing away at high speed on a big inflatable banana. The objective? Stay on the banana! Just to serve our readers' interests, I have personally been out to verify the fun quotient on most of the aforementioned activities. So here's a rundown of my favourite Phuket watersports. Yacht charter
I went out with Thai Marine Leisure (TML) aboard sailing vessel Destiny for a daytrip around Phang Nga Bay. TML has a number of vessels available for charter and, if you're a qualified sailor, you can skipper, crew and stock the boat and simply take off into the morning sun. On the other hand, if you don't know starboard from port, TML can supply a skipper, crew and cook for your yachting pleasure. Over a delicious lunch on deck, TML's Jo Cooney explained the business of sailing: "It's not unlike renting a caravan. By making a simple contract, you can chart your own course and simply take off into paradise. We get a lot of people who love to sail but don't have a boat here in Thailand. It's really an exciting place to navigate. There's a lot of impressive wild scenery here, the islands, and marine life. It makes for a great adventure." Although you can charter the boat for any length of time from a single day to several months, a typical charter route extends for about a week and winds down and through Phang Nga Bay over to Krabi, onward to the Phi Phi Islands, over to Koh Ratcha Yai and Noi, and back to the Yacht Haven. Some prefer a three-day trip through Phang Nga Bay to Krabi and back. The boats range in price, but it's surprisingly economical. The beautiful Destiny can accommodate 8 to 10 guests, and charters for about US$350 per day. Add a skipper, crew and a cook for about $160 more. And remember, split among your group, it beats the cost of a hotel room. That's everything including food. You can sail year-round in Thailand, but the very best times of the year for wind and weather are January-February and September-October. Scuba Diving This activity was hosted by Marina Divers, based in Kata. I brought along my friend and Thai divemaster Nui Gaidho. Right off Chalong's tourist harbour, we explored three amazing dive sites: the fabulous King Cruiser Wreck dive, Shark Point and Anemone Reef. The guides explain that King Cruiser was a huge ferryboat that sunk under suspicious circumstances. It actually hit Anemone Reef, a well-known and easily avoided obstacle, and limped a couple of kilometres farther before finding its watery grave. It makes a great wreck dive to 32 metres at the bottom, and multiple decks present themselves for exploration as you ascend. We swam with a dazzling array of schooling fish including skipjacks and barracudas, and saw giant groupers and lionfish. Wreck dives always give me a haunted chill, a superb sense of adventure and mystery. Anemone Reef itself was decked out in a robe of brilliant colour, with the swaying undersea flower-animals lending the reef its name. I moved slowly towards a beautiful (and harmless) leopard shark resting on the bottom, and hung with him for several minutes. Later, in a rare display, a male and female shark performed an underwater ballet that was clearly a mating ritual. A giant fish called a cobia swam only a couple metres in front of Nui. These fish are often seen swimming with whale sharks, and, although we didn't see a whale shark, many of Marina's guides were clearly excited that one was probably in the area. Shark Point was our last dive of the day. This site is a chain of several small seamounts that gradually get smaller towards the south — something like the buried vertebrae of a giant sea monster's tail. Nui and I circumnavigated several of the mounts on a hunt for nudibranchs, small but exotically coloured sea slugs, and found four different varieties. On the way, jewel moray eels poked out of holes, seahorses bobbed about, and endless swirls of brightly coloured fish parted in our path. Marina offers live-aboard trips to the Similan Islands and other package holidays designed especially for divers. The Similan Islands are rated one of the top 10 dive destinations on the planet.
Sea kayaking
My host, John Gray, shares his knowledge of local ecology along the way: "These sparse mangrove trees infuse the food chain with their decaying leaves, and without them this fragile ecosystem would be forever lost." Along the way, he points out many hidden treasures. "Here's a species of tree that so far remains a mystery to the world's botanists — none like it found anywhere else." Mud-skippers scoot along the banks. Perhaps the first of the sea's evolutionary experiments to explore the terrestrial world, these strange little fish walk out of the sea on their fins. They bear our own faces as they were millions of years past. We kayaked into several of these lagoons during the daylight, entering through sea caves. Each cave is different and spectacular. One has hundreds of insect bats hanging about, another offers beautiful formations encrusted with what appeared to be millions of tiny diamonds glimmering in the darkness. To get through some of the passageways we had to lay flat on our backs, which induced a state of intoxication as the guide paddled into the lost world. Using a big motor yacht as home base, we returned at sunset from our stealth explorations to a delicious supper. After the feast, the crew taught us to make krathongs — a floating decoration made from banana tree trunks, leaves, flowers and candles. This was the starlight cruise, and were kayaking back into the bat cave to see the changes in the tides. Inside, the water glowed with bioluminescent plankton — a simulation of the night sky above. We lit up our krathongs, made our prayers to the sea and set them afloat in the serenity of the jungle night. Power snorkelling
Parasailing
River roving River Rovers represents a new design of purpose-built boat for exploring the rivers and estuaries of the area. Partner Gordon Williams and builder Roger Diggelmann invited me to participate in the boat's initial launch and maiden voyage off Chalong Bay. As Roger explained, "With its shallow hull, this new craft will take people to places that other luxury boats can't. There are a host of routes and possible itineraries, some reaching far up into the river mouths on into the watersheds that feed into our seas here." The best part is that it allows visitors to experience a new view of southern Thailand's natural beauty, as it cruises up the interior waterways and mangrove systems. A different and exciting choice, the company's slogan is appropriate: "Experience another Thailand". Wind/kite surfing
t's believed that life on Earth originally appeared in the oceans. All the fossil records point back to those tiny, single-celled sea creatures of the sea and the brackish transitional bogs where seawater turned to land. Given that our mammalian bodies are nearly 97 percent water, some might even say we're nothing more than one of many different experimental containers, designed by the sea, to explore the land. But this isn't our quest today. Instead, we're going back to explore the water. Life on Phuket still springs from the water. The culture, the cuisine, the commerce, the entertainment, the weather, and the very beauty of Phuket are direct reflections on her boundless giving. Any number of ways present themselves of exploring your ancient heritage as protozoa, plenty of ways to heed the call of your imminent return home. I think I hear your mother calling you. Welcome to watersports Thailand. To start with, let's just get our feet wet with some categorical choices. For the relaxation crowd, there are a wealth of choices, among them yachting cruises and charters, riverboat cruises, speedboat or longtail picnic daytrips, sea kayaking, and simple power-lounging on the beach (novel, hat, sunglasses and the occasional wade in the water). For the slightly more physical crowd, there's snorkelling and scuba diving, jet skis, windsurfing, body surfing, board surfing, kite surfing, banana rodeo, and parasailing. All right, okay. What's banana rodeo? Picture a speedboat towing about 10 crazed people laughing away at high speed on a big inflatable banana. The objective? Stay on the banana! Just to serve our readers' interests, I have personally been out to verify the fun quotient on most of the aforementioned activities. So here's a rundown of my favourite Phuket watersports. Yacht charter There's really something of a spiritual experience in hoisting the sails and cutting the motor on your very own yacht. On Phuket, it's even more dramatic because of the exotic scenery. Hundreds of idyllic islands and towering limestone formations are enough to take your breath away as you glide by on the wings of the wind. I went out with Thai Marine Leisure (TML) aboard sailing vessel Destiny for a daytrip around Phang Nga Bay. TML has a number of vessels available for charter and, if you're a qualified sailor, you can skipper, crew and stock the boat and simply take off into the morning sun. On the other hand, if you don't know starboard from port, TML can supply a skipper, crew and cook for your yachting pleasure. Over a delicious lunch on deck, TML's Jo Cooney explained the business of sailing: "It's not unlike renting a caravan. By making a simple contract, you can chart your own course and simply take off into paradise. We get a lot of people who love to sail but don't have a boat here in Thailand. It's really an exciting place to navigate. There's a lot of impressive wild scenery here, the islands, and marine life. It makes for a great adventure." Although you can charter the boat for any length of time from a single day to several months, a typical charter route extends for about a week and winds down and through Phang Nga Bay over to Krabi, onward to the Phi Phi Islands, over to Koh Ratcha Yai and Noi, and back to the Yacht Haven. Some prefer a three-day trip through Phang Nga Bay to Krabi and back. The boats range in price, but it's surprisingly economical. The beautiful Destiny can accommodate 8 to 10 guests, and charters for about US$350 per day. Add a skipper, crew and a cook for about $160 more. And remember, split among your group, it beats the cost of a hotel room. That's everything including food. You can sail year-round in Thailand, but the very best times of the year for wind and weather are January-February and September-October. Scuba Diving
The guides explain that King Cruiser was a huge ferryboat that sunk under suspicious circumstances. It actually hit Anemone Reef, a well-known and easily avoided obstacle, and limped a couple of kilometres farther before finding its watery grave. It makes a great wreck dive to 32 metres at the bottom, and multiple decks present themselves for exploration as you ascend. We swam with a dazzling array of schooling fish including skipjacks and barracudas, and saw giant groupers and lionfish. Wreck dives always give me a haunted chill, a superb sense of adventure and mystery. Anemone Reef itself was decked out in a robe of brilliant colour, with the swaying undersea flower-animals lending the reef its name. I moved slowly towards a beautiful (and harmless) leopard shark resting on the bottom, and hung with him for several minutes. Later, in a rare display, a male and female shark performed an underwater ballet that was clearly a mating ritual. A giant fish called a cobia swam only a couple metres in front of Nui. These fish are often seen swimming with whale sharks, and, although we didn't see a whale shark, many of Marina's guides were clearly excited that one was probably in the area. Shark Point was our last dive of the day. This site is a chain of several small seamounts that gradually get smaller towards the south — something like the buried vertebrae of a giant sea monster's tail. Nui and I circumnavigated several of the mounts on a hunt for nudibranchs, small but exotically coloured sea slugs, and found four different varieties. On the way, jewel moray eels poked out of holes, seahorses bobbed about, and endless swirls of brightly coloured fish parted in our path. Marina offers live-aboard trips to the Similan Islands and other package holidays designed especially for divers. The Similan Islands are rated one of the top 10 dive destinations on the planet. Special thanks to the following water sports companies: Thai Marine Leisure (in the Boat Lagoon Marina) 20/7-8 Thepkasatri Road, Tambon Koh Kaew, Phuket Tel. 076 239 111 www.thaimarine.com E-mail: info@thaimarine.com Cobra International 1/11-12 Chaofa Road, Chalong Bay, Phuket Tel. 076 381 065 Email: cobrapkt@loxinfo.co.th Beach Culture Surf Store Big C Supercenter Phuket Town Tel. 076 248 278 Power Snorkel, South East Asia 50/4 Moo 5 Viset Road, Rawai, Phuket Tel/fax 076 280 239 www.powersnorkel.com; Email: steve@powersnorkel.com Roger van den Akker Kite-surfing instruction Tel. 01 090 3730 Email: rogerkamala@hotmail.com River Rovers, Inshore Charters 1/16 moo 9, Chaofa Road, Chalong Bay, Phuket Tel. 076 280 420 www.riverrovers.com Email: info@riverrovers.com Marina Divers 47 Karon Road, Karon Beach, Phuket Tel. 076 330 272 www.marinadivers.com Email: info@marinadivers.com John Gray's SeaCanoe 124 Soi 1 Yaowarat Rd. Taladyai, Muang, Phuket. Tel. 076 254 505 www.johngray-seacanoe.com Email: info@johngray-seacanoe.com
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